Search results

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbVdyPZiOLM

They slide right out

"Did I pop the tire?":rofl:

Lol that guy HAD to have a Supra... :(

That sound is typical of the Bosch bypass valve. Mine did the same exact thing, so I swapped it out for a Turbosmart bypass valve and never heard that dreaded noise again.

My fans been painted black for about 2 years now, still works fine! Paint has held up surprisingly well, no chips or anything.

Grabbed an old set of OEM pistons I had and sure enough they look like yours.

You sure those are true OEM? I've seen pictures of stock replacement pistons that look just like that. EDIT http://mizumoauto.com/product/view/id/230

I'm in Avondale. Always nice to have a hand, I will let you know when I am actually working on it. Its been sitting for a long time now, just waiting for parts as usual... Cylinder head is done. Got all the shims done, installed a new heater union, hex bolts sealed, cam seals installed etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czr4nUEF77s

Next time it doesn't fire up, give the connector on the distributor a wiggle (right behind the thermostat housing, 4 pin). A common issue on these engines, and when there is an issue with that connection it will prevent the car from running/starting. Usually if you can't see the tach jitter...

Sounds like you need this http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/techtips.aspx TSRM is the service manual, EPC is an electronic parts catalog, and TEWD is for electrical wiring diagrams.

11071 is the front and 11701 are the others. Sorry forgot you asked that lol

Looking good man. I have never had a problem using an OEM gasket with no spray. They appear to have some sort of coating on them, so I would avoid using copper spray personally. I have removed heads off of an engine that had an OEM gasket with copper spray, and the gasket didn't adhere to the...

I aimed for around .0015" on my rods, right in the middle of the range. One of my mains needed a #5 bearing, which put me at .0016", and because of this, I aimed for .0016" for all the other mains, to keep them even. You don't want one bearing on the tight end of spec and one on the loose end...

Steven, I have a set of Taiho rod bearings (OEM brand) and NDC main bearings in STD size you can have for very cheap. Brand new never used of course, I pulled one pair of shells out of each to check what my clearance would be and was on the larger end of spec, so I went with OEM select fit...

Is this for the pre 89 water temp sensor? I looked everrrywheere for this connector and couldn't find the PN, however the post 89 water temp sensor connector is easy as pie to find. Just want to verify this is in fact the rectangular version.

FYI I found that EV1 injector connectors work great for replacing the rectangular water temp sensor connectors. The only difference is you need to file one of the locating ridges off of the plastic part of the sensor. I tried buying a new OEM connector from the dealer but could not locate a part...

Keep in mind that an undersize bearing is used to correct for a crankshaft that has been cut. When main bearing bores are line honed, they are always brought back to the original bore size (they shave the cap down, then bore it round again to give a perfectly round bore that is the exact same...