It does seem that way.
Haha, my girlfriend’s son asked her; "Why is Charles always fixing his car?" :yelrotflm
Every time it starts running well, I add something or upgrade something.
I tell folks; "If it is running good, I can fix that." :)
Thank you all for the sympathy and those with empathy too ;)
I need to learn something from this and so far can’t put my finger on it. What was the cause? I thought I had a good conservative tune. Was not exceeding the boost reasonable for my mods. I had all supporting mods for this level of...
Oh how I wish, but with the chimney like dipstick tube (blow by) and compression in 2.........85.....120 (rings or ringland), I don't think I have a chance. I have searched all the vacuum hoses and ic connections and have not found a leak. :dunno:
edit: Yeah. I was thinking, after that log...
They want to be on both sides of that fence. You know if it had happened, you would have heard "Why didn't they know? The government is not doing enough to protect us."
I decided to try out the Rebic LC. So I installed it and had my S-AFR disabled. Everything seemed to be fine. With my mods, I had the dial set at 3, A/F ~11:1, boost ~11.5psi, 93 octane (first attachment). Felt great and everything looked good.
That was getting on the interstate. Five...
I'll bet your battery light does not come on when you put the key in and turn it to on - yellow-green wire - http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/Wiring/pages/Page_042.html
Don't know just yet about the brown one.
Thanks. I found it in the instructions too, if I had only read them first.;)
Mine = AFM > LC > SAFR > ECU
Once I get a good igniter I can get some data, but I don't have 680, so I can't answer that.
What would be the benefit, or not, to running an Rebic LC and an AFM scalar?
And if a benefit; How should it be wired?
AFM > scalar > LC > ECU AFM > LC > scalar > ECU
268 HP / 299 Torque
SAFR settings @ Tulsa Dyno
RPM - Gain
3200 [-5]
3500 [-10]
3800 [-12]
4100 [-14]
4400 [-16]
4750 [-15]
5050 [-13]
5350 [-12]
5650 [-10]
5950 [-7]
6250 [-7]
After the dyno I found out I have a bad igniter, threw a code 14 :(. I think that is what...
Look on the tt. Just don't connect the acc line from the tt to anything.
I was under the impression that it was a physical switch that determines if the keys are still in the ignition, that unlocks the door. I didn't know that having the accessories powered would trigger the unlock function.
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