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Personally a like revs, like this arrows+engine But the most important reason I went with the 1JZ is that I can make almost as much torque but at a higher rpm , and this is why I will win. This site explains it pretty good. torquehp http://F1 Drag Race

Yeah I continually find it amazing that things were working right before the break. :icon_lol:

I do like the look, how well does the lights shine through? I dont like the uneven light distribution of bulbs. I have pondered makeing LED panels that would replace the lights not just the LED replacement bulbs, but make a panel full of leds that would fill the entire tail light.

I have one on my 1JZ , no problems so far. No noise, very responsive. :thumbup: :thumbup:

You should lag less and produce more power, the lines will shift a little to the right for the larger engine.

are you guys sure? even if you are not going anywhere the turbo will spool up when you rev the engine up. so if you rev eingine up to say 6000 RPM and then close the throttle, the turbo should be still turning high rpm and thus still pumpin air. With throttle closed there is no where for the air...

I have created flow potential for my 1jz at 100% VE 100 Fahrenheit day at several boost levels and rpm. The lines represent an rpm and they relate flow at that rpm for a given a boost ratio. I choose 7, 12, 15, and 22 PSI. This means this turbo should be a great match for the 1jz. to get a...

turbo maps 101

I suspect that this one is for 2jz, 1jz http://www.drysump.com/pan23.htm Its a cast aluminium bit.

I think I read somewhere that aluminium drive shafts reduce the possibility of breaking other expensive bits in the drive train. The twistability of aluminium takes the peaks out of the torque spikes. CF also is a good dampning material but very rigid might cause problems in high HP, TQ...

I believe it had to do with a noise, vibration issue. The harmonic resonant frequency of a shaft is proportional to its length. The short sections have a higher harmonic resonance frequency.

could the Schrick Cams have so much overlap as to allow unburned HC by? would installing ajustable cam gears allow you to remove most of the overlap in order to pass smog ?

I have found WD-40 to be a good cleaning agent.

I think that route will lead to to many headaques and wont quite look like what you want. Is this is close to what you are looking to create? ariel Ariel-Atom-Honda-Powered-Street-Legal-Mini-F1 how about this http://formula1street.com/photos.html

This project has gotten very mature and in my opinion has the best tuning software. It is customizable and some very cool features are in the wings. It can do COP, Electronic boost control, nitrous control, IAC stepper control for most common EFI idle control motors , 12x12 tables and so on...

I do not have any first hand experience with Body kit manufactures, who makes decent kits ? I have a particular manufacture and kit in mind the extreme dimensions Evo kit, made with the new "duraflex" material. Is this worthwhile? But also curious about quality from others as well.

There is a speed sensor in the dash. How this signal is used other than for the cruise contol dont know, most modern cars use the abs signal for speed signal now. There is also a nylon gear that can crack in the tranny.

I feel like vandalism is worse that stealing. Stealing does not seem as personal as breaking something just because. might I suggest claymore and a tripwire.:icon_evil

Laying up CF/FG on a surface will produce a rough surface and not look good. This type of construction will then entail bondo and lot of sanding and you wont get the CF look. To get good surface and CF look you will have to make a female mold from a prototype ie your old dash , hood , whatever...

I am the second and last? owner of my 1986.5