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eraser works better :)

I'd go 1UZ if it was 100% bolt-in, only because it would be a fun reliable car. Don't need a ton of power anymore...

That would do it as the bleeder wouldn't be on top and you'd never get the air out :)

Even if the clutch wasn't working at all, it should go into gear with the engine off.

Miami has nothing on Texas, and I run German Castrol... Also, Mobil 1 is a ripoff for what it is.

So far as I know there isn't enough lift for them to touch eachother. There would have been a warning in the TSRM if that was the case.

Direct injection makes more power and gets better economy. If money was no object, sure.

I know I'll make some people mad, but IMHO there is no reason to go 1J anymore when you can go 2JZGE-T for cheaper and make more power. 1J's have gotten more rare and prices have gone up for ratty engines. I can go to a local junkyard and pull a 2J for far cheaper. You can run the 2J on...

Oddly I kinda dig the 4x4 stance :rofl:

I'm sure you can get a stocker for cheap as most people throw them away...

That's what I was thinking. As it all happened after a high speed run, could have fouled the plugs.

Maybe he's misfiring?

I agree, he's running higher fuel pressures so he should be crazy rich...

We have a sticky specificly for questions like this... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?56843-Wheel-Fitment-amp-Question-Thread

They're extended to stick out of the side piece on the 3 piece wing.

The ab-flug spoiler looked almost the same. Always been curious if they're copies of eachother or what the difference really is. Hard to do since both have been out of production for some time...

Reminds me of this, just not as pretty :) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?83198-Project-Cherry-Widebody-Pics-and-overview-thread&highlight=widebody Candy paint jobs aren't cheap and they don't touch up well. Fair warning.

More than likely just 20 year old grease (or rust since that belt is used less). Seat belts can be refurbished as well.

For an N/A, pretty much any brand will do. That's a little low price wise compare to what I'm used to ($100 = $150 is about the range for an OEM style clutch from a decent company). Just remember to get the flywheel properly machined.

Possibly can do damage, depends how bad it blows. If water gets in the oil, rod knock is next on the list. If the cooling system gets low enough to run the head dry, it anneals and becomes junk...