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Do you really think that would make no noise!?!?! Hence the "sewing machine" noise! Plus the car pulling it.

Do you have a set of numbers stamped on your oil pan mounting surface? Example(Mine:() 2221222 (Machinest is taking care of what I think is a FUCKING shitty setup by Toyota!) Personally not sure what they mean, but I know IJ does and I'm sure others. Has to do with the bore size.

Yah thats the delima I faced as well! Nothing local and you might as well pay twice if its far away. If you can find one in a junkyard!!!!! Clearly he can't(me either) or else I'm sure he woulda looked. Exactly, or even most. Atleat its a 92. Thats the crapshoot. Personally if...

Just goes to show you how fast an engine is rotating during proper operation:):aigo::aigo::aigo: A 4 stroke engine running at only 1800RPM is firing each cylinder 15 times per SECOND!!!! Pretty damn impressive!!!!! Good video.

Yah thats a crapshoot, who knows. I bought my motor off of someone here so I took his word. Good luck it took me a while to find a engine that I wanted that was also close to me too. Good luck man. Edit: Cool site, thanks.

Depends if its been molested before. 3 hours away I would pick it up if you can. What year block and what does it come with. I payed 500 for my 92 block.

12 pounds is raising the boost. If you got a engine that was prepped for a MHG and ARP's you should be fine. That is of course you have a good tune all the time...One detonation and the high compression fun is over. I loved my NA-T, partially the reason I went with Wiseco pistons as there...

Oil pressure WILL decrease with rpm. All I'm saying is with a light that is not working properly and no gauge who knows what your oil presure is. Of course lots of cars don't have them, but its good peice of mind and there cheap enough.

Change the oil ASAP!! Turn it over for a minute to get fresh oil everwhere(more importantly coolant off the bearings) and then plan you HG repair, and don't run it anymore.

There must a set made out of silcone, if so I'd also be picking one up.

This, or you very well could be waiting for rod knock.

I was going to go with Clevite's too. What do you mean IJ? Clevite only putting there name on them and not making them? What would you recomend these days?

I suppose, but the only place you need elbows is either at the adapter, filter head or cooler(and they all only 1/2npt) and I would advise against 90's at all costs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70272?autofilter=1&part=BMM-70272&N=700+300221+4294906639+115&autoview=sku Thats the cooler I use, little bigger. I don't see the point of -10 line, considering the filter adapter, cooler, and remote filter head all take 1/2 fittings. It is bigger than...

Good shit.

Right on, are you getting the engine rebuilt? Good to hear you got the heavier block. I bought mine off arizzle and is currently stripped bare at the engine builder:)

Never seen one on a gas. Cool.

The extra rib on the lower right of that pic is a dead giveaway, and all you can really see when the engine is in the car. Thats a "late" model block, Thanks IJ. Gonna be making some power this spring Brent? We'll have to race again:)

WOW lots of bickering over a simple, yet important setup. This adapter mates with the NA filter stud.Best one I've seen, and is what I use. Good thermostat, remote filter head and good filter, big cooler, -8 hose and the rest writes itself.

Does anyone know the JDM ecu part numbers, in the thread below I'm told its a JDM 88 5spd 7M-GTE ecu but its gray plugs. Are the JDM all gray plugs maybe?? Any info would be great thanks. The last digit is kinda scraped off but hopefully he can make it out in person...