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Why would you air them down? Increased contact patch is NOT something you want on snow and ice (you want to maximize the weight per unit area of contact with the road). You would only want to increase contact patch if you were trying to "float" on top of the snow...

say what? for the last week i've been able to spin in 6th gear on the highway (i.e. completely ice covered) and haven't had any problems. As long as you don't drive like a retard on ice, you'll be fine with normal tires.

02 Maxima SE (6MT). No winter tires so it isn't all that stellar in the snow, but I can keep it between the ditches, which is all that really matters. The wife's car is a mazda3 sport with winter tires...which is fantastic in any winter conditions.

the new energy suspension poly bushings are definitely cheaper now...but a set of oems can be had for around 600 (minus the front lower control arms). On my car, I replaced all bushings with the exception of the two rear-most subframe ones. I think the total was less than $1k. Also, if you...

In a time of joblessness such as this, how many here have actually begun to look at alternative (legal) ways to generate income? There are many ways to make money outside the traditional "employee"-type job which only require time and desire, but I don't beleive the majority of the population...

On the last trip i took with my car (which was a few years ago mind you) I got around 425 miles out of a tank. IIRC this was on stock fuel.

Find out the car's history. If it is from a snow-free area, and you can't find any rust, it is unlikely that there is any hiding...either way, get your head under the rear wheel wells and check it out - this is the most susceptible location for hidden rust. Aside from body rust, there is a...

you suspect wrong.

In my opinion, unless the fire burned for a sustained period of time, the frame is fine, especially if no warping of the steel occurred. Plus, the typical locations a fire will impinge the car body are not strengthening members anyhow. The kinetics of steel annealing are such that it takes...

arz performance, in the vendors section

yep...car in 5th, ebrake on and brake pedal to the floor.

When re-installing my crank pulley, I found that it is probably not the smartest idea to wedge the block of wood between the block and crankshaft...I could not get anywhere near 195 lb-ft without bending the block more than I was comfortable with. As far as removing the pulley bolt goes, get...

it illuminates when you actually pull on the door handle. there is a switch on the inside of the door handle which activates this light....if both lights aren't coming on for you, I'd start troubleshooting that electrical circuit (if it bothers you enough)

if its not working, chances are the contacts have rusted away. This light should activate at the same time as your green circular ignition light (eg. when you pull on the door handle).

I'm not sure the lighting thread covered that....as far as I can tell, the only way to change the light is to get a new lock cylinder. I'm pretty sure the light (or led) is part of the cylinder. Mine quit working because the contacts corroded away...so a new lock cylinder was the only...

If you are shopping for the nuts at your local hardware store, the head sizes are probably going to be different from stock. JIS (Japanese industry standard) fasteners have smaller head sizes for a given thread size compared with metric (above m6 size)...

the TSRM does specify a test procedure....it is the same procedure for the 7m and 2jz...so i assume it would be the same for the 1jz.

This was my first thought as well...I had the exact same problem on my first supra - would get a nasty chatter/low rumble when taking off under 1500 rpm.

to answer the original question, the manifold can get up to 1400F+ (glowing red) depending on how long you are boosting for. 2000F coating is the way to go.

pretty much the first thing i thought of when i saw this thread...