Search results

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Ok, when the crank pulley is at 0 the marks on the cam gears should line up with TDC. T and E are for checking codes but you also short them out when checking/setting timing. Even though your crank pulley and cam gears line up doesn't mean the timing is correct. DO NOT LINE THE PULLY UP TO 10*...

Timing should be set at 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light on the plug wire going to the first cylinder and t and e shorted out in the diag box. Did you check the timing with a timing light?

Well, did you put a clamp back on the hose? Also, bluish smoke means oil which in your case wouldn't be coming out the passenger side like so put that aside. Id check the hoses for a leak somewhere and also check coolant level to see if you're losing coolant.

Hmm, are you sure the smoke is white and doesn't have a blueish tint?

Is this a GTE harness? It almost looks like the wire to the right of your foot in the picture that has no connector on it was where a knock sensor used to be and they cut it off to run it on a GE since the GE only uses one knock sensor. I cant really tell for sure in the picture, this is just...

OK, just making sure. A lot of people will say they checked all because they gave it a glance because they were to lazy to actually check. Have you reset the codes since the new battery was installed?

So "everything looks good' as in you actually checked what they said? or you're just saying it out of assumption?

I don't think any engine with that many miles on it should be run to redline without a rebuild, even though the previous owner says it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was unless there is paper work but who knows how good of mechanic it was? Before you're going to run a car hard whether its a GE or a...

I agree aith like the above 4 or 5 posts, almost like 4 different people read my mind and posted for me.

I wouldn't worry to much about the ecu. The odds of that are very small but hey anything can happen.

There's an 87 at a pull apart in Agusta that's been there since the beginning of the month, don't know if it's turbo though..

And DO NOT boost until you have the o2 sensor on, if you're running lean and are boosting it's horrible for the engine.

When the oxygen sensor fails, the computer can no longer sense the air/fuel ratio, so it ends up guessing. So since you have no o2 sensor at all it's guessing what your fuel mixture should be so who knows what it's doing. It could be too lean or to rich, which will make the car run poorly and...

So there is no o2 sensor at all right now?

So you're running your car and boosting with an unplugged o2 sensor?

Lol maybe they'll even be nice enough to buy us a 2j! I think I'm gonna get some seafoam also..

No one can just tell you the head is good. That's something you have to find out by testing things which would require a leak down test to see if a valve is leaking. Start testing things like doing a compression test/leak down test and all that fun stuff. Process of elimination.

This should only be a problem when coming off boost depending on how high the boost was which some people actually don't even have a problem not having the BOV recirculated. To the OP, so the car if you rev it will go up to about 3k rpms and the drop to idle? and under load it stalls? does it...

Well, to help us a little more, what all(aftermarket) do you have done to the car?