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BOSS series stage 5 (.81 A/R) with a GTS cover, dual BB CHRA, and a front trim of your choice = FTW! ;)

I left you some info in your build thread ;)

If you think you'll never want to go with anything more than 350 HP, then the stock 440 injectors are fine, but send them off to be flow tested and cleaned. If you think you'll be having some growing pains later on, better go with the 550's, you'll also want to send them off to be flow tested...

I was actually looking to start it out around 11.3-11.7, so we're pretty much on the same page here ;)

I do understand your reasoning here, my debate is based on equations of how to calculate velocity and an engine's volumetric output under specific boost settings. The only real way to prove it, like you are talking about, is with real world experience on the dyno. I think that you'll find that...

I want that TRD strut bar!

To keep the canister from vibrating loose. It's suppose to be for weight savings too so claims RSR with the GTII line of products. When even one spring on each side is attached, the damn thing isn't going anywheres. They're a bitch to get on if you don't know how to go about it right off the...

Good, but you can have better for cheaper. The less IC piping used, the better. A universal piping kit and spearco replica are damn hard to beat when you go through the snorkel hole underneath the passenger headlight ;).

That's pretty damn nice with the SM logo all the way do the middle of the car, I like it ;). I've got the game too, my favorite MKIII that I have so far ( I have 3) is my Teal, kaminari 1G-GTE ;)

Just like weezl said, I completely understand if you don't want to dump more money into it, but think of all the good times you've had with the car (the police chase for one). Try and just step away from the car for a while and then come back to it later, see if the desire is still there to do...

I don't know if anyone ever told you this, but I'll go ahead and let you know just in case you didn't. Welcome to the money pit ;)

Ian's turbo is also a ball bearing turbo, so boost comes on significatly sooner than a regular turbo, less resistance to spin the turbine ;). Jake, turbo or not, flow charateristics through a tube are the same when it comes to velocity, turbos just increase it even more ;).

Rust FTL. She deffinitely needs some TLC. Did you get a good deal on her?

Remember, I only stated it as being a good place to start out at instead of going 20 psi right off the bat ;)

The sensor for the coolant light is in the resivoir bottle, check to make sure there's no foreign debris in it. It could also use a good cleaning probably. Do you have your fan shroud on? Do you have an engine undertray installed? Does your fan howl constantly? Can you spin your fan...

He needs eleventy billion psi.

Route ;) Damn, I was beat to it!

I get that too. No ricers wanna touch my car when they know I'm packing a turbo under the hood ;).

Ok, I have to say that I love the MKIII with the 1G-GTE over the 7M, it's so much easier to drive as peak torque is lower and doesn't want to power over nearly as bad. I've got quite a collection going on ;).

Ok, at 22 psi and at 6000 RPMs will net you 624.12466 CFM's. This equates to 211.9 ft/sec on FULL 3" piping with a pressure drop of 0.37 and 305.1 ft/sec on FULL 2.5" piping with a pressure drop of 0.77... You are just a tad over the sweet spot with the 2.5" piping, but then again, with the...