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Yeah, an unplugged KS can't be the cause of your problem. Have you checked for codes?

That's true, because removing material from the head or block raises compression, which increases the risk of detonation. This is why you size a headgasket so that it makes up for the material removed. But you only want to remove the minimum amount of material (from both head and block) to...

I had to do this with mine and if I remember right I ground off about 2 or 3 threads. You should be getting close...

Yeah, code 52 is knock sensor (or more likely knock sensor wiring). Try re-wiring them before replacing the sensor; there's a good write-up on here that should be easy to find. You will notice a moderate loss of power driving with this code set, since it causes the ECU to go into fail safe...

Some have gotten away with it, some haven't...but the block really needs to be re-surfaced as well, if you want it to be reliable (I wouldn't really trust that the engine only has 25k on it anyway). At that point you might as well do a full rebuild...If you can't afford that yet then you're...

As mentioned, you don't take material off the head to fit a certain gasket, it's the other way around. You generally want to take off only the minimum amount of material required to get a flat, smooth surface...that's why the process is also called "resurfacing." Even if you were trying to...

The ARP stud torque spec has changed over the years, but I don't believe it was ever in the 70's....I've heard a few different numbers between 80 and 90 ft-lbs, but the torque spec on the sheet that comes with the hardware is what should be used. Maybe you're thinking of ARP head bolts, which...

In addition to the power steering pump making noise, does your idle drop when you turn the wheels? Just thinking maybe the P/S idle up vacuum line isn't hooked up...I know you said you checked them all, but just a thought...that one is easy to miss since its path goes all the way from one side...

www.nutsandbolts.com. That's where I got mine, I think they were a little longer than the Driftmotion ones but they were otherwise exactly the same, even had the coarse pitch on one end and fine on the other. Just checked and the ones I got were part #9712.

Doubt it fixed itself ;) They may be old codes....you could try clearing them, going for a drive then pulling codes again. But if any pop back up there is something wrong even if your car seems like it's "running fine"...besides didn't you say something about the car idling low and dying?

CEL turning off doesn't mean the codes went away...

I've never tried it with the head in the car but I can tell you that even with the head out of the car that job is a pain, in my opinion. I was successful with a few of the holes but 4 didn't turn out right and the helicoils wouldn't screw in. Best option would be to pull the head and take it...

Yup...you would have to be most careful at part throttle under load (like when you're going up a hill)...boost + leaner mixture due to no EGR = greater chance of detonation.

I'm pretty sure the "long needle sprayer thing" you're referring to is the cold start injector. In that case what you described is just how it should be...the CSI isn't supposed to inject fuel constantly. To troubleshoot a fuel problem, this might help...

Did you pull codes since this happened or are you just saying the check engine light hasn't come on? You might have codes but no CEL. Sounds a lot like fuel cut (code 34)...

You have a pre-89 so you'll have to remove/pivot the starter to get to the rear KS....so might as well do that now, once you do I bet you'll see it.

True, would be better to drain the block first...

Yeah, even though it's not in the TSRM, I thought I'd heard the same about holding the throttle open while doing a compression test. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged so the starter can crank at full speed.

If the A/C button is pressed while you're checking codes, then yeah, it will set a code 51. Same thing if the throttle isn't closed (your foot is on the gas pedal or it's somehow stuck partway open). Other than that, a code 51 points to the TPS or TPS wiring.

So I gather you didn't get the block machined, only the head? Cleaning up the block with a sharp scraper is usually enough when using a composite HG, but if you put on a metal headgasket without machining both the block and the head you are really taking a gamble as to whether or not it will...