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well.. that's the thing lol.. I took a guys word instead of just getting it done.. I was in kind of a hurry to get this motor put together.. That surface of the head, without a clean shave, will cause these symptoms right? What about the fuel though?

So, I got the car to start, and completed all the wiring troubles I had.. Car has mhg, arp head studs torqued to 80 ft/lbs, new oem pistons, and brand new bottom end bearings. Redid the exhaust for a 3" downpipe, and had to weld in the back 02 sensor... Now.. 1. I had the block...

Turbo timers are a godsend, because no one wants to sit in their car and idle down for a few... They are easy to install too.. Lucas... some people love it, some people hate it.. It's good for car lots to quiet noisy engines down, as for a 7mgte, not sure if I would or not.. Oil stabilizers have...

CRE is right... neo gray wire to the VTA pin on the ECU neo white wire (input) comes from the AFM, which you have routed through MAFT neo yellow wire (output) would be the new signal neo/maft made, going TO the ECU no air temp on the neo, and the green on the MAFT would be input, since it's...

So.. it seems the harness differences continue. the C1 connector.. by the fuse box, wasn't connected.. hence the no power from BATT on ECU.. Fixed that.. have gotten fuel and spark now, it tried to start, and ran for like 5 seconds, shut off and won't fire and stay running again.. can the CPS...

I am right about where you are.. I'm going to be checking a few things tomorrow.. quick question.. does your ecu at the BATT location have power? mine does not.. so im trying to find my problem.. wondering if the CPS is bad or has a broken connector, if it would cause no power at BATT on the ECU..

any help would be MUCH appreciated!

Also, I read (somewhere) that the CEL won't work once you swap in the turbo cluster into an NA car? If that's true I won't be able to check the light for possibly DTCs right? ffs lol

^, clean what u can, if a lot of that surface crap comes off, hone it.. looks kinda 50/50

I had a starter that was faulty.. Did the same thing.. Seemed like it only did it when it was real hot after a drive, or when it was damp outside.. If the starter is the problem, next time it doesn't wanna crank over, reach down and hit it with something, not really hard, just enough to jar the...

The bottom square is the injector resistor... I found that and plugged it in.. And the two wires that have nowhere to go, are inside the car, that came from the old B1 plug.. (although I agree it looks like the two from the water neck housing.

First off... I've been RTFMing for hours.. lol Ok, background. Was: 1989 GE 5 Speed (mfg 7/89) Gray plug ecu w58 transmission.. Swapped in: 1990 Supra 7mGTE motor same car (1990) ecu, wiring harness also same car (1990), R154 transmission. Storyline: Completed the swap of motor...

I'd go with shaft play, getting loose and rubbing the housing... as soon as you pull the accordion hose you'll see it if it's rubbing..

I have the same plug on my car, unplugged, always been that way, except mine is gray.. same plug shape/wire count though..

what year is your harness? im putting a 90 harness/motor in a 7/89 na shell.. that's where my problem comes in.. seems like an early 89 car, with an 89+ harness and ecu, etc.

yeah, the paper gaskets in that set are junk.. like always, but the other gaskets aren't too bad.. still not a metal head gasket though lol

o god.. lol not yet, im hoping that doesn't happen

nsngarage / josh / nsngarage

I hear ya.. i just swapped a gte in my 89 na, and i have B1 connector issues.. apparently the gray plug harnesses aren't the same.. good for me!

Just waiting on the stock afm to try to start the car, see what "doesnt" work with these two wires not connected..