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^who needs a bedroom set with an arsenal like that to turn the women on... sexy time would have to be something classy, timeless, reliable; 1911 .45 because canadians cannot have the double stacks (my understanding...)

found the thread; fiberglass doors..; http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?78426-project-who-said-supras-are-to-heavy-for-track-cars/page10&highlight=fiberglass+doors

^what?... my rota's perform perfectly, they are round and keep the air in the tire.... and they cost about 1/4 and have 1/8 delivery time if I bitch one... than a work etc..

^take a pill, even in my first post I made vague reference to track car on this site with fibreglass doors - a significant weight mod... the OP could have used the search function, and that would have avoided you getting your panties in a bunch because someone said 240sx...

^sorry for the shitty size... painted naked engine bay for fathers day.. been cleaning and re-assembling ever since. funny how everything has a very specific install order/interference...

who said you can't have both.... the point was the grand tourer (supra) isn't the best starting point shaving weight starts to cost monies quickly once the usual suspects are taken care of.. interior, HVAC, ABS, SRS, DTRL's, extra copper wires, moduales/controllers, swiss cheese-ing other...

sell MK3 = 3450lbs.. purchase 240sx = 2700lbs... ^remove tar mat/carpet, entire A/C system, entire SRS system, titanium exhuast, JDM front rebar (2-piece), and a few other things = 2500lbs (roughly) ta-da... I don't think the MK3 is the best chassis to begin this discussion with.. but there...

^I own Rota's... allowed me to move significant monies into the rubber column = high ends buns... I always laugh when I see BIG dollar wheels running low dollar tires..

OMG... molded bumpers and sides.... tisk tisk... looks good otherwise... ^this makes any sort of repair work involving those areas so much more difficult....

shitty performance though... but she likes them^

In ottawa... I would recommend a new t-block (separates rear line into 2), as your fittings are likely rusted permanently in place new fittings (ontario uses too much road salt), front to rear = 10' (there is a fitting below the steering column in the engine bay I would guess you could start...

I did attempt many searches.. prior to turning to you guys for help I used this guide; http://www.97supraturbo.com/Tech.html however my 1-6 signal wire colours do not correspond to the above HKS DLI - 2 guide.. are the 6 wires (not red/black) cylinder specific? thanks in advance -

wire tuck light, MK4 resistor pack, Ignitor pack, HKS DLI

I needed a second set of hands to get my hatch where I wanted it...

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/ttc/ttc.htm one-way check valves (Toyota part number 90917-10049, about $5 each from Jay Marks Toyota ^something like this will do if I want to avoid $76 CAD price? its on the top of the motor so I have a couple weeks until I am in dire need...

none to shaby for a daily... how is it in the winter? outside of T.O. that is where we experience winter...

same as the brake booster (different size though)? and flow is out of the BOV ? good to know, as toyota canada wanted $76 CAD for it, same plastic garbage, not upgraded metal unit...

On the stock 1jz twins hanging off of the stock recirculated blow off valve, there is a little plastic diaphragm thingy, about the diameter of a nickle $0.05... on a vac line. not sure what it does, 1 way air valve? ^but mine is broken, during removal for polishing... I have misplaced it...

fine tuned the fitment of the new front to back lines; fuel pressure/return, rear brakes, evap canister pain in the ass but likely to last another 25 years...

fine tuned the fitment of the new front to back lines; fuel pressure/return, rear brakes, evap canister pain in the ass but likely to last another 25 years...