Ok when I jumper T and E in the diagnosis block, like when you are going to check for codes, the engine idles at 1500 and stays there. No jumping around, just a solid idle at 1500. When I unplug it it goes back to the up and down idle. What is this telling me? Is it just because the engine...
:1zhelp:Since it dose idle for about 5 sec. after I play with the thorttle, the goes back to the reving thing, can any one tell m if I am looking for a vacuum leak, or is it mechanical / sensor problem? With me bloking off the IAC the engine should die right, (yes TB plate closed)? Since it it...
This is the reason I went with this FFIM. Alternator in OEM location and the A/C is still there and working!! The battery was suppose to stay in stock location also, but there was just no room :( So now I have to get in the hach area some where that also has a OEM look to it. Maybe a smaller...
Well I can not find any vac. leaks. I have also sprayed starting fluid every where to find leaks and nothing(starting fluid makes a good cleaner lol). I have blocked off the hose to my IAC and nothing changes. I swaped out TPS and..........nothing still the same. Here is another Vid. and...
Im going to keep it the same color or just a tad bit darker when it comes to paint time. This color is growing on me. I might even leave the turbo-A duct and front lip black, I like the contrast it gives the front end, with the tinted windows :)
8-2-2008 - Pics. are on post # 8 -
I put everything back together last night (with flange on FFIM straightened out) It started right up and had great vacuum. About 17 inHg. Thank you IJ for hitting the nail on the head as why I didn’t have any vacuum.. But now the idle is fluctuating...
Ok well I got everything put pack together last night, and you guys hit the nail right on the head with the flange on the FFIM. I now am pulling 15-17 inHg of vacuum. :)
I retimed the cams and timing is on.
Today I have to do a little more trouble shooting. I have that stupid idle problem...
Brown and white plugs are correct^^^^
The gray one is for the EGR temp sensor, only found on a cail. spec car. I also have it ;) It comes down between runner 3 and 4 correct, with those other plugs and the grounding points.
51348 is the part # that wix web site gives me for our cars.
Rockauto has them for $4.12 ea. plus shipping witch is around $10. and shipping is about the same weather ording 1 or 12.
As for oil temp. Yes there is/was a problem with the oil temp, when they (V's) spike to 350+ degrees not when they run at 240. At least this is what the on board computer is telling me. O yeah I forget unless it is aftermarket most everything is junk on a OEM car.
???? 1.2G, not for me...
I better send cadillac's engineering team a email to make sure they get it right on the new coming out. Shit 550 hp out of the box with there LS9. I just migh thave to trade in my "out dated" for one. :sarcasm:
Reading up on this and on the cadillac forum these temps are normal for...
Here is pics from my build thread, and what I had to do to get the AEM gears to fit properly.
First, counter sunk the holes on #2 cover, and used button top screws.
Next had to dremel/cut the extra bolts threads off.
Hope this helps with the cam gears.
Now ready to go. Remember...
Every one is telling me to source a JDM ECU. Well I might have found one, dose any one know the part #'s of a JDM ECU? Or know how to tell if it is JDM and not a US spec.?
I know I should trust what every one says. But now days sellers will tell you anything just so you buy stuff from...
Yep you have the right ones. TSRM I had a few years back was also 4 differnt books for 89 supra. But I sold them in 2003 :kickinthenuts: after I sold my last 89 :cry:. I needed beer money at the time.:naughty: But at least I didnt let them go for free. If I remember correctly I sold then...
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