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only 1 way to find out ..... dyno

I am not really sure what you are getting at but I have read it a few times and I could careless what car or truck the M series started in. I would take an average Chevy "truck and suv" motor and boost it after doing all the little things to lower the compression a making it boost ready and...

Mike is my 7m oops lol I mean your 7m still running??? Then it isn’t a broken system it might not be to the liking of most people who want to see 30+psi at idle but to for people to dance around words and hint that the 7m oil system is garbage isn’t accurate. Lol I just fill her...

They suck?? Lol strong words man .... I have been pushing over 400rwhp on a stock PP and a 6 puck for 2 years. I can balance my clutch on hill and I dont have to rev high to get a smooth start off. However most of the time I do, because I drive hard 24/7 I can let off the clutch slowly until it...

About flashing the 7m ecu yes you can, but not like Honda and Nissan ...... We would have to get lucky and find a MINES ecu. But with all the other options out there I wouldn’t go that way. About the turbo ..... move on from the ct26 you already have a t4 manifold get a Master Power...

What clutch are you running, a stock clutch? If so and its not new don’t waste your time trying to make more than 300rwhp typically the stock one is good at 350rwhp new but I personally seen my stock clutch start to go at 14psi on a stock ct26 and I had dyno'ed low 300's hp and high 300's...

i love mine

Since you come off as a guy that is new to tuning. I would ..... get a fuel pressure regulator and tune with fuel pressure first and then do some fine tuning with the SAFC. If you find your self taking out more than 25% I would drop my base timing down a little until you can get to a dyno, even...

Well just think how hot the turbo gets ...... an stock oil cooler is needed, but different setup would be better. Get a temp based setup instead of a pressure based one(like the stock setup). I would like to see how a full flow setup works during the summer months.

Hey is that adapter a 45degree bend to the two flanges?

With our cars the actual "cc" is almost the same figure as the power it will support ..... 440's have been proven to flow enough to support 400rwhp, 550's around 500rwhp and so on. So 700cc injectors for 400rwhp might be overkill. Post your sheet man I would wager that once you get a good clutch...

Then clear it up ....

I would think thats pretty good bc if you had bumped up the fuel pressure and with a piggyback you had scaled back you would be in the 20+psi. I personally hit 22psi with an older boss stage 5 I want to say it was a 61mm or 66mm .... cant remember Chunks good shit man .... that’s the...

Jdub we are saying the same things just differently :) .... hence my post about the AFM and the area around 1600hz (give or take) in 2nd and 3rd gear that fuel cut happens around. The reason I was why I stuck to the angle of “flow and turbo” is because it supposed to be understood...

That is true ..... the stock exhaust, stock intake, IC and IC pipes and the turbo would be the first few places to start because they are a lot of gain with these mods alone. Then when I would start to do the more expensive stuff but I would work with the next thing that has the most...

I think I get what you are trying to say ...... If you mean 14psi with a bigger turbo flows more air than a smaller turbo at 17psi. Pressure is the measure of resistance with flow and flow equals power is saying that if you are making 400rhwp at 22psi there is a lot of work that can be done to...

Yea it would eliminate fuel cut if you wanted to ...... but again fuel cut is a good thing. How much power are you trying to make? PSI does not equal power.... 18psi with an upgraded ct26 will make a 1/3 of the power that a gt35r will make ..... get where i am going?

I am going to take a stab at trying to explain fuel cut in a very simple way … So if I am misstating or misinforming feel free to re-educate me and everyone else :) that might be misinformed also. Fuel cut has a lot of variable but understanding it is easy. Fuel cut is there to save...

First thing what is your setup and second do you have a wideband? Are you adding fuel with the NEO? If you are adding fuel what is your base fuel pressure when the car is warmed up to operating temps? Once you know those little but important things you can start to play with your air/fuel...

hey can i see a picture of your adpater?