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^^ totally agree with Mike. i read through this whole post and was like, wow people are dumb, and now they have made me even more dumb. PS: 87turbo: you probably shouldnt own a supra, if you cant fix anything, this car is not for you.

before i had standalone, i had 550 HIx injectors and i didnt bypass the injector resistor, and my car ran strong, no problems or anything. i dont know if that means anything or not, but yeah.

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i wanted to do this, but i didnt know how much it would cost, and i dont know a shop around me that would do that. i love how duane did that though.

1. car overheated in the beginning because of cooling system problems, now it is fine. i have stock radiator. 2. no idea about that. didnt seem possible because it seems like the pully wouldnt sit all the way on the crank/key. you can make a different style sensor mount and keep the stock fan...

link no worky fix: http://www.defi-shop.com/product/din/din_top.html very interesting, can you customize what types of gauges you have (i.e. boost, water temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, egt, etc.)

which did you go with, did you go with the avc-r? what were the selling points to you? im thinking of upgrading to a better ebc now (just dont like the profec b spec 2). how much boost do you plan to run?

car runs awesome with that bracket. its been modified a little since that pic, and im going to make a new bracket soon so i can use the stock fan. IJ: thats awesome! if my motor was out i would totally do that.

no experience, but i read the pdf manual. on page 22 (26 in the pdf) it states: Desired boost pressure range: 0.2kg/cm^2-2.0kg/cm^2 which equals 1.96 BAR or 28.44 psi

yep, just forgot to put them on my website before i painted it:

found out what the different colors mean for spring rates if anyone wants to know: 1.1 BAR - Black 1.2 BAR - White 1.3 BAR - Silver 1.5 BAR - Yellow 1.6 BAR - Brown Taken from SSAC site

lol old school, yeah ill be using an ebc with this so i should be ok, although some of the springs are still a mystery:icon_conf edit: and yes, i do have the gaskets, well i have 2, one for the mani to head and one which appears to go between the mani and that plate that goes between the wg and...

IJ: so maybe its not missing the top plate and adjustment screw? do i need to plug that hole in the center? sorry for all the Q's, new to external wastegates obviously :P

yeah yeah, i know its a replica, dont rip on me too hard :( edit: ive looked on HPF site and a few of the colors match up, but i dont know if they are the right rates. ive also looked on ebay a little and dont see anything there either

IJ: do you have any pictures of this plate, screw and locknut, or do you know where i can buy replacements? also, it came with 6 different springs, and i dont know the rate of any of them :(

hey guys, it was nice meeting a few of you, though i didnt get a chance to meet most. great turnout! looking forward to meeting more of you at some more meets hopefully soon.

i just bought an HKS wastegate off ebay, and i think its missing parts, but i cant tell as this is my first external wastegate. can you help me out? it came with gaskets and a dump tube, not shown. it seems like there should be an adjustment screw in the top and some sort of plate...

what year tundra, or does it matter?

i have a question kinda related to this. im getting the gt35/r. i have a ss mani and im getting a t3/t4 adapter from MDC. I also have a 3" BIC dp (not ddp). ok, my question is, what would be needed to convert my existing dp to a dp compatible with the gt35/r, if at all possible?

if you dont wanna take the timing belt cover off, take the oil filler cap off and see if the cam lobe is pointing up while the bottom end is at 0.