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Good race.. Doesn't sound like either supra was running to its potential, but at least it made it an even race. Maybe I can convinse my friend here to race me soon. He will have a PT67 1JZ and I will have a GT35 built 7M.

Why is there an MK4 on the front page?

Yeah, I agree on both points. The clutch should be kicking in at around 165-170 , not 150. And maybe the fan shroud will help. Anyone know who has the best prices on fan shrouds?

Another thing to consider is keeping the stock ex manifold and using an T4 adapter. That will help a lot in the spool department at a little cost in topend. But seriously, I would not go with a Ptrim turbine wheel unless you going for all out power (which it sounds like your not). 61mm with...

Its a 10 blade fan on a GTE clutch. I did some tests outside. According to my new meat thermometer:icon_bigg , the clutch is engauging at 150 degrees and releasing at about 140 degrees. The probe was about an inch or so in front of the clutch. So it seems that the clutch is working...

For those goals, I would go with a smaller turbine wheel instead of the P-trim. If you can afford a GT35R, I would go with that.

OK, I guess its supposed to rotate back the other way as soon as you remove the heat right?

How much power are you looking to make?

Thanks for the suggestions. The fan clutch was used on my friends car for a short period of time before he went electric. He was also using a Fluidine radiator and said the fan worked perfectly when he had it on. Keep the suggestions coming. I'm out of ideas..

That's exactly what I was thinking. But the fluidine radiator I have on know is a little narrower and further away from the clutch.

I am stumped on this one. My radiator fan seems like it is spinning to fast after the engine warms up making lots noise when the engine revs up. Sounds like a truck. When I was running the stock radiator, I never had this problem. But then I switched to a CFS radiator and now a fluidine and...

Actually, compared to many "GT" cars coming out recently, the 3600 pound supra is not that heavy anymore. Mustang-3600 Mustang cobra-3900 GTO-3800 2008 Infinity G35-3650 BMW M3-3500 BMW M6-3900 2009 evo will be 200 pounds heavier(3250+200=3450). Now thinking about all the light...

We keep warning people about Egay turbos. Oh well.. BTW, a .96 A/R turbine housing is too big on a turbo that size unless you plan on making 800+rwhp or reving your engine like a honda motorcycle. A .68 will give you much better spool and still be capable of over 700rwhp.

That would round out to about $3000 after dyno tuning.

I'm in the same situation as Mustangman05. I'm leaning towards the MAFT-PRO because of the $$$ to buy a standalone ECU and the $$$ to tune a standalone ECU. And I have known a couple people running the AEM and it seems like something is always a little off in tuning or drivability of the car...

My boost went up 2psi (with no other changes) when I switched from the RT high flow cat to a testpipe. That was proof enough for me that the Cat was a restriction.

Testpipe is definantly less restrictive. I have run both.

Weight does matter. But so does power potential. Anything can have power potential, but its that much easier with a big 6 cylinder engine. Look at this way: Put a T4 turbo capable of making 550rwhp on a supra and put the same T4 turbo on a 1.8 liter honda. They can both max out the turbo and...

Stock supra turbos and MR2 turbos are very very close in acceleration. Both run the 1/4 mile in the low 15's(some high 14's). And both have 1/4 mile trap speeds in the low 90's. Turbo soup, your car is definantly down on power if you got pulled like that by a stock MR2. I've driven both stock...

I ran my 12.0 on 255 BFG DR's. They hook great on a prepped track. However, I wouldn't consider a tire that wears out in 5k miles- a street tire.