You need ~25% more to safely maintain power levels of gasoline, E85 is what... $.20 cheaper than gasoline per gallon? That doesn't add up to cheaper at all!
Corn ethanol is worthless, from a business/cost, performance, and longevity perspective.
This explains the point I was going to bring up - even from Toyota brand new they need a bit of man handling to get all the bolts in the 1st time. So make sure its flexible.
Documented 33k miles was blown and had rod knock for my car... not even close to 100k miles before failure. Many flaws, unless a safety hazard are either quietly fixed or simply ignored. Look at GM's LIM gasket/dex-cool catastrophe...
That being said I am definitely pro 7M, IMO it's idiotic...
-Make sure you have no external leaks
-Make sure the rad cap is holding within the pressure range listed in the TSRM
-Is the radiator 100% full/fluid touching the bottom of the cap when the car has completely cooled overnight?
-Block checker will be a waste of time/money unless it's a...
I personally have not found any issue running the stock .032 gap on these exact plugs for 45k miles now. Proof that they "really need to be gapped" Poo?
After the engine was completely warmed up (oil temp 80+) I'd see brief swings on my greddy temp gauge that looked like air bubbles. Also I noticed the cooling system had lost its ability to expel air and maintain a 100% full fluid level, could never pull the last 1/2in or so back from the surge...
I have plenty of confidence in the stock head gasket design of today with ARPs and the higher torque. Especially with new or properly machined parts.
My car was on it's 2nd one already, done by Toyota in 1993; so I was basically waiting for it and as a result I caught it loooong before most on...
OK, I'm giving it *some* boost with ARP studs I asked about a little while back. (undercut were exactly the same price so I went with them, BTW :dunno:) If the Toyota goo is designed to help seal, as I suspected it may, it's probably an unnecessary hassle to add more to it. They've applied a...
So is it a go or no go in your opinion? The question comes up because I'm trying to do what I can with less than ideal conditions, and want to give the best chance of filling any minor imperfections that may exist in the head and/or block.
It doesn't cover it at all, considering jdub himself has said he's used copper spray on OEM headgaskets in the past. In fact the basis of my question stemmed from that thread, and not knowing if the OEM has always had a grippy coating on it out of the box.
I know it's been covered before, but I have not seen anyone mention the following so better safe than sorry:
Out of the box the OEM gasket seems to have some sort of "grippy" coating already on it, as either part of the manufacturing process or as a sealing agent of some sort. Does anyone...
Not the exhaust the scrapes, its usually the stock lip for me on all of the ridiculous humps/dips/grade changes I seem to encounter. Particularly entering parking lots...
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