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Well lets see. Upgraded CT-26 vs 67mm turbo, stock ecu vs standalone, upgraded injectors vs stock.. You can figure this one out. If your 7M is healthy, put on the same size turbo as him and do all the supporting mods for 700rwhp- big intercooler, big fuel system, standalone ECU, tubular...

I did just under 500rwhp at 17psi on a GT35R. That was on a built 7M head with cams.

From my experience, ported head and cams really wakes up a 7M. I went from 400rwhp at 17psi stock head and stock ECU, to about 495rwhp at 17psi wth a reworked 7M head and 264 cams (AEM tune). Both on 61mm turbos.

Lol. Don't worry, the targa only adds 80 pounds.

The curbweight of a stock MK3 turbo hardtop is just under 3600 pounds. So that looks fairly accurate. Not sure how much your seats weigh?

The stock manifold will help the turbo spool faster, but also be a restriction. I dynoed at 451rwhp years back on the SP61GT at about 20psi using the stock manifold. Loved the powerband on that setup.

I'm out.. After fixing an oil smoking problem for weeks, my car developed a coolant leak. Thought it was something simple, but it turns out that the head cracked right next to the exhaust manifold stud. Tried stopping it with JB weld, and it still leaks. I really wanted to make this meet, it was...

The head has a LOT of money into it, so if anything, I will get the head repaired eventially. I applied the JB Weld today, so hopefully it works.. Thanks everyone for the help.

Here is what I found today.. There is a small crack about 3/4 inch long on the head right below the stud threads. It is dripping right at that point. I have no idea how the coolant can get to that location, although it is very close to the water neck area (the triange shaped area of the head)...

I'm pretty sure its coming from the stud. The tip was wet when I pulled it out the first time. I'm thinking I might have cracked the head, since when I tightened down the stud, it dripped faster.

Thanks. It is the stud closest to the front of the engine.. I can't tell what part of the head I'm looking at in that diagram./\ I'm pulling the turbo and manifold off AGAIN tomorrow so I can clean the hole out thoroughly.

Apparently I tightened my stud too far into the head, so I guess it punctred the water jacket. So now I have a serious leak that I cannot stop. I tried RTV, silcone thread sealer, and teflon tape and nothing will seal it. Anyone have any better suggestions?? Thanks.

Great news!! My car developed a coolant leak under the exhaust manifold today so I would have had to cancel anyway..

Yep, tough call.

20-30% chance of rain usually means a passing shower. Are you going to cancel if the weather forcast holds up?

Just noticed this meet is now on the 22nd.. I thought it was goingt to be this weekend (15th). Good thing I checked.. At least it will give me a little more time to get the car ready.

I see. If I were you, I would make sure everything is running ok(tune, plugs, boostleaks, base ignition timing), and then take it to a dynojet.

First off, with there attitude at this dyno facility(Ricer Central), I would take it somewhere else. I'm not sure I understand what's going on.. Did you redyno it with the heavier wastegate spring? With a 62mm turbo and your mods, you should be around 360-400rwhp at 15psi if everything is right.

Besides the building the bottom end, anything to enhance flow will help you get the most out of the 67. If you have the money, I would have the head ported and get at least A/M springs and retainers along with 264 or 272 cams. The stock intake manifold flows fairly well, but a better aftermarket...

Good turbo choice. Their is lots of info about this turbo on Supraforums. So far (if I remember correctly), there have been 2 2JZ's hitting over 800rwhp with this turbo. An IS300 with a billet 67 (.96A/R) hit around 835rwhp SAE corrected. Not to mention an evo that made over 900AWHP with this...