For a minute I thought someone was asking about shimming the springs for a higher seat pressure, until I clicked on the thread. Normally a valve job includes re-assembly of the head. The shop that did the work did not do that for you?
That sounds like it would cut very well IJ
For those reading the this, a lapping plate with grooves in it will cut more aggressive that a flat plate. Generally you would use the grooved side to start, and a the flat side for the final finish. Not that our MHG's need more that just the grooved side.
Federals are a good bearing, kings are not and have been proven not to be in a 7m. Federals are sometimes used by Clevite for very odd sizes, as NDC is used by clevite for nearly all STD and many -.25mm now. Just stick to OEM bearings or Clevite/NDC, there is no reason to use anything else...
I am wondering the same thing. Was the cams installed according to the timing events on the cam card? Or did they get installed like a set of OEM cams by just lining up the timing marks. Aftermarket cams NEED to be installed according to the timing card supplied with the cam or they will be out...
I want to talk about this some more also. HVYMAN is right on with the ARP. No one should ever be telling anyone what to torque their ARP head studs too other than ARP. As HVYMAN said, ARP has changed the moly in the kits several times over the last 6 or 7 years. Depending on how old your kit is...
Welds cannot break off on a welded camshaft. If I showed you two cams, one welded and one not. You could not tell which one is. The weld becomes part of the lobe and is re-ground to the same finish as a cast or billet cam. Welded cams are usually stronger than the original cam. The welding wire...
ahh, typo, gets you every time.
To the OP - With CP pistons, eagle rods, and good bearings installed, any failure would not be the fault of those three items for 500 hp.
Got to turn that motor off as soon as any knock sound is heard. I hate to say this, but you can try to just repair the damaged parts and see what happens, but I think in the near future you will be doing it again. Now that the rod bearing has come apart, you will find metal particals through out...
No, I really don't know enough about your set up to say. But Iboughtasupra already hit the nail on the head. You want to size your cam and head flow/velocity to match the turbo you will use and to where you may want your most usable and desirable power band. At the power level you want, you are...
you could have it milled flat at a machine shop. One thing about your belt sander....some automotive machine shops use a giant belt sander mounted ridgid to a table. It is a special type that has a belt several feet wide. It is used to clean and flatten gasket surfaces on cast iron exhaust...
I don't have my books in front of me to see what toyota spec is for each numbered size, but I will tell you that his spec is a pretty wide spec. Oem toyota bearings should be available from any dealer. I have the part numbers, but again, I don't have them in front of me.
Your machinist maybe...
It is easier for the machine shop to size the rod big end and the rod journals to fit the clevites then for them to re-do the rods and mains back to the original toyota size ranges. You cannot just size them to the number on the bottom of the rod cap since that number stands for a range of sizes...
Was just pointing out to anyone reading this thread that the advertised duration of a cam has little to no meaning when it comes to the size or power potential of a cam. Not all 270+ advertised duration cams will "need" a valve train upgrade. For example, a 7.7mm lift 274 or 278 duration cam...
Lift makes top end power. Not duration. Lag can be adjusted by cam timing. How can you say a 272 advertised duration cam will need shimless buckets if you have no idea how big the cam is to begin with?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.