I know where you can get compressor maps for the GT series but you'll have to buy the software it's attached to. It's $20 US to download it, I don't know if you'd consider it worth it, but it's here:
http://www.turbocalculator.com/personal.html
if you want to check it out.
Technically the 7M head bolts are reusable even with the higher torque. 72 ft/lbs still lies within the elastic portion of the bolt. On the other hand replacing them is cheap insurance. Personally I'd replace them.
AC isn't that big of performance impediment. It's a touring car for Christ's sake; it's supposed to be comfortable. The only justification I can think of for deleting it is if you live in an arctic climate or are building a race car.
The biggest problem I see is space. There isn't a lot of extra room in the engine bay. I've heard that you need a single turbo conversion if you want to swap a 2JZ into a Mk3. Since the Mk4 turbos will end up in roughly the same spot you'd probably have the same problem. But this is just hearsay...
The beam type is fine for torquing down a cylinder head as long as you stay within the limits of the wrench (don't approximate measurements past the marked values).
I'm going against the grain here; buy the beam type torque wrench instead of the more expensive adjustable torque wrench. A beam wrench holds its calibration better and its accuracy is fine for our application. The click type needs to be recalibrated regularly for it to remain a precision...
I don't have a personal preference for solvent, IMO they'll all get the job done if you take your time. Some may make the job faster but I never noticed a difference.
Cleaning isn't a task I like to give to the machine shop; it's easy to do yourself and they probably won't be as anal about...
I'm really fond of my Tanabe hyper medallion. Mandrel bent 80mm stainless piping, livable noise levels on long trips and it carries a reasonable price tag (~$225 less than the HKS dragger). I'm currently using a 3" stainless DP and a SS 3" elbow but if I was doing it all over again I'd opt for a...
Those cams look like there isn't much compromise in them. :bigthumb: I love how broad the peak is, it looks very useable. Did you install them straight up or are those the final numbers after playing with cam timing?
Buckets of "extra" bolts are always fun.
"Dang, this is a big one; I bet it's important, I wonder where it went..."
On the last engine build I used labeled Ziploc bags instead of just throwing the bolts into the traditional coffee can. Disassembly took longer but reassembly was a breeze.
I'd like a write-up on a Tien install. It'll probably be my next major modification so a heads up on potential pit falls or insights you get after finishing the task would be appreciated.
A giant turbo and a basic fuel management don't mix well. You'd have lag... then boost takes off like a rocket... and bounces off fuel cut. With your current plans you'll still be contending with fuel cut. Big turbos feel like the hand of god when they spool but it won't do you any good if...
I chose to buy a JDM engine and used it as a core for a rebuild. Because it's a low mileage engine you can reuse most of the parts you end up replacing with a high mileage rebuild. I paid less for a JDM engine than the cost of 6 pistons and 2 cams from Toyota. I ended up paying less and could...
Past sniffing your exhaust and reading plugs there's no real way to tell if you're running rich without a wideband. Narrow band a/f gauges are basically there for entertainment purposes. They may have some use for rough tuning a carburetor but they're not very useful for EFI. There are plans for...
It's very illegal; if you get caught it'd be a felony. It also doesn't make much sense from a financial standpoint. Buying a front clip and swapping the desired JDM parts over would be cheaper than purchasing and shipping a MK3 here.
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