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Now a geo metro against the stang would be some competition. Don't the mustangs top out at 110?

Same here. I have a a/t to m/t. t70 turbo, 3" mandrel exhaust, no cats, and a muffler. 32x12x3 IC, 3" piping. and my car vents at neutral. It doesn't show anything on the boost gauge but 0. but it still vents

If it smells so bad, how does it taste?

what does it smell like?

Calm down now the old man is gonna get cranky:biglaugh::biglaugh: J/K Specs are the way to go. Except for the ARP head studs. I always torque mine down to 25, 45, 65, 75, then 95lbs. IDK thats just the way it happened. So I stuck with it.

I bypassed the nss and went off of the wring harness.

I've done everything I can to fix my problem. New wires, connectors, starter, alternator. It all started when I switched over to a manual transmission.

No motor in it right now. But I'm working on that.

This is my 1990 toyota supra turbo project.

Check your fuses under the hood. Check the blue 100 amp fuse.

Mine clicks like it isn't getting enough power. If I click it enough the click gets louder and then it starts. New alt, starter, and battery.

God that make me quiver. Thats like breaking a tooth.

IAC ISCV Same thing. there is a 5/8" hose and pipe that goes from the ISCV, across your valve covers, to you accordion tube for you turbo. Fire up the car and pinch the hose closest to the turbo until your idle drops. the hose in the pic attached.

My buddys supra was doing the same thing. It turned out to be his IAC. Get a pair of pliers and pinch the hose going to your turbo from your IAC. I did that to his and his idle went down. His IAC was seized open.

i always had a problem finding nipples that size at parts stores

Just started the car. No bubbles in the coolant. The whole rad assembly is new. fan, clutch, shroud, rad, t-stat. I went for a drive too. It didn't get over normal temperature. But when the car warms up I get a metallic grinding noise by the water pump. But not when the car is cold.

No cold spots. And i never really checked the hoses for temp change. Okay time for a block test.

But there isn't any fluids where they shouldn't be. And it doesn't get hot anymore after I release the cap. I would say that me relieving the pressure in the cooling system allows the thermostat to open. Cooling the motor. I'm going to remove the jiggle valve like jdub said and see what happens.

I can recall one time the coolant expelled out the tank. Hoses are ballooned. And the gauge creeps up. The gauge is in between the cold and normal with the thermostat out. When I had my electric fans one fan went out and the car would start to get hot. So I would turn on the heater. That...

jdub I will do that. I tell if it changes anything.