Search results

That would only work with the clutch depressed and the key switched to start. That said, just because the ignition switch kills aux power when trying to crank doesn't mean that the switch is good. The reason things dim is because the internals of the switch remove power from all outgoing...

Here's a schematic of the circuit. Note that Pin 13 of the theft comp grounds the starter relay, and the power comes from the clutch switch.

Our professional oppinion on FCDs is that you should sell it on ebay. If you are wishing to bypass fuel cut, please tell us what your mods are and how much boost you seek to run, then we can advise you on what course of action to take to get around FCO. ;)

Hmm, when you say bypassing the theft system, how did you do that? Did you short terminal 5 to terminal 13 on the theft computer connector?

Hey Matt!, You still feel like sharing the name of that body work friend of yours? ;)

How much leaner? The turbo has no effect on idle fuel pressure. Moniter your Vf signal and adjust base pressure such that you read 2.5V when cruising, then all will be well.

Ix-nay on the ooters hay.

Usually our rads leak from the plastic tank on top, and no magical fluid is going to fix that...

Hmm, if the machinest doesn't mention it, I don't think he know's any better than the end-user!

To clarify, the positive connection is in the round four wire connector on the driver's sode fender. ;)

Ground the fans directly, and buy a $6 relay instead of the $60 thermo control and ground the relay to the stock AC fan temp switch.

Love our Tein HA's ;)

Yep, pre 89 makes the loop, we run 2.5 hardpipes from the turbo to the IC with no interferance, that looks great though!

Heh, the best was when Heidi was driving behing a brand new C6 vette, and some kids were playing at the side of the road and took no notice, then she rolled by and the kids all stopped, pointed and stared, "Wow! look at that car!" Priceless. And then just today at a service station in the rex...

Your exhaust cam is one tooth too advanced, you need to take off the front black cover and retard the cam one tooth, (turn it counter clockwise one tooth)

Bingo, 24 = afm temp sensor, so I'd check the AFM connector for stiff, frayed wires, and go from there. 51 is tps, or ac if the AC was on during the check... TPS means there was nop idle contact during the diagnostic check, have you replaced the tps lately?

Yup. Read that thread. If you are saying that the timing is too advanced and you are having trouble retarding it, please ask a question and title your thread accordingly. If there is excess pressure in your radiator, search BHG and let us know if you find anything usefull ;)

I've never heard of the manufacturer, but it looks like there is a recess for the rear wiper and the antenna, so I'd say the only way to know is to test fit it. That said, I've never ben fond of whale tails...

hmm. No codes, I assume. Maybe a poor reading from the AFM? Gas is usually good for a year or more in a tank...

Ooh, Interesting read here. What I can say is that when replacing the fan shroud, our temp guage reads consistanly lower temps now. That must mean that there was over a 20* differance if the guage doesn't read a change from 80to 105* normally... That said, it would be great to know what made...