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Yes, IMO that's incorrect. If the spacer was compromised then the torque of the nut would be directly acting on the bearing rollers rather then the inner races and spacer. If the rear was set up and somehow the spacer was removed I would only suspect that the nut would loose all it's torque...

IMO the pinion preload is the most important part of the rear end setup. If that crush sleeve is compromised in any way the preload will be compromised. If the preload is compromised not only will the bearing life be compromised but the pattern of the gear mesh would also be compromised. I put...

The Weir upgrade is just a spring. I have it in my rear currently.

Thanks man! I was going for something different/subtle. I was never one to be flashy.

I wore out (not broke) my ring and pinion on the dyno at 520hp after 30 pulls in 4 hours. I hadnt checked the fluid in it once and i bought the car 10 years ago with somewhere around 160K on it. It was a grenade with no pin, just waiting to let go. I have since rebuilt another stock rear and i...

Now that i look at it, my comment about the two plates stuck in the case is actually wrong, There were actually THREE plates still stuck in the case. Yes, Those outer plates are factory only plates, they are sized to give the proper clearance in the spider gears so the guys at the factory...

Thanks! Yea im thinking of going in the beginning of next year. Maybe around April. I gotta finish the tune. Its only tuned on 20psi and i want to dial in the timing at 25 psi. Might go a little bit higher. Id love to get a 9.999999999 time slip. :biglaugh: Thanks! Yea the whole hood is CF...

I think being NA it will be subjected to much less temperature and pressure then even a mild (400hp) turbo motor. I dont think there is anything to worry about.

I dont think i have ever checked them. Gonna have to do that.

Yea some things really need some effort to come apart. The inner pinion bearing race is unbelievable to get off. Wear safety glasses and stand behind something strong enough to catch flying hunks of metal just in case. Toyota is the place to go for the parts considering how long these have...

Arent those bushings pressed into the subframe? How did you get them out without removing the subframe? I will admit i have never really taken a good look at them but im having a clunk when i come to a stop thats been aggravating me. Mine sounds like its coming from the passenger side.

What was wrong with the stock bleeders?

IJ: Yea the install into the panel wasnt too bad after lining the pin location up. The biggest problem is the lack of clearance between the hood and the radiator support. I made blocks of aluminum to instal the pin into that bolted to the underside of the radiator support. Because its a 1/2"...

Got everything back together and the car is for the most part done! Just need to get back to the dyno to finish tuning on 25psi. Got some pics of the completed body work. I think it came out amazing.

Haha its actually funny i am in need of a driver side lock switch. Mine has been broken for a while and its pretty annoying to have to unlock the car from the passenger side every time. Thinking about just getting a keyless entry kit and wiring it into the lock switch wiring.

Nope, just straight out.

Wow, i think theres 2 in my area including mine. Wheres the video?

Damn, Nice job, how did you straighten the fins so well?

There is a small ring clip in a groove on the stub axle that locks into a groove in the side spider gear in the carrier. You need to use a slime hammer to get that ring to come out of the groove so the axle stub can slide out.

Yea i had one of those in my '94 pickup, It worked great. I dont see the need in a Supra. All you need is a new set of clutches. If thats not "limited" enough then get the max grip kit. As long as both your tires are on the ground i think a stock clutch type LSD is pleanty. Only exception i...