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Thank you sir.:icon_bigg

....excuse me. I think my statement was valid.

You're ignition switch is worn out. That will cause exactly the problems you are having. Pull the key barrel and replace the switch. To Test: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=15 Here's the part...

Sorry to see you have to part with your hardwork. The next one will be even better as I'm sure you learned much from the experience with your old Supra.

This is just a bad idea. It's gonna look dumb, serve no function, which is ok I guess...If that's what you want. But, I'm willing to bet that almost anyone with the resources to make this happen, would also possess the common sense not to do it. It's your car, but it seems to me the money and...

Cheapest and easiest maybe...but not the right way to do it, and certainly no guarantee-able likelyhood of solving his problem. I stand by my post (#11). I'm sure he wants his brakes "right", especially given the amount of work, time and money he has already invested in this car. If he...

I agree, especially back east. I'm in California, so we drive 'em all year round and it occasionally rains (about the only good thing about living in Cali "big brother" fornia).

Forget Wagner Thermo Quiets, I've used them twice and the anti-squeel pad that comes glued to the back of them ALWAYS comes loose and gets rotated out of the caliper where it then starts rubbing against the rotor. It results in a squeel that will dwarf your current squeel by comparison...

I probably spent more money powder-coating them than you have in your motor. Dub's and 30series rubber might impress you>:squirt-mo, but it doesn't work at the strip. Familiar with the term "sleeper"? You might want to get in at least a month here before you start talking shit.

Someone on this site (might have been SF), had a step by step how to on this exact hood mod. It was done on a 240sx but it would be the same procedure on a MkIII hood. I do have one word you may want to consider before you undertake this modification...rain.

...I'm curious about what controls the universe. I think are chances of finding out anytime soon are about the same.:sarcasm:

me r nt undrsnd u dnt tlk gd cn oui tri agin? f u 2n lk u rite no 1ndr. know atnshn 2 d-tale...

Did you ground from the alternator to the neg battery post? I can't tell from the pictures.

Forget the blown motor... If money's the main consideration, I'd find a good JDM motor, clean it up and change the headgasket (much easier with the motor out of the car). You gotta be careful who you get the motor from, I've seen great ones that look and ran almost like new, and I've...

You might want to clean up the rust on the lower part of the subframe. Maybe you can still avoid having to torch off those cam adjusters on the lower control arm if you jump on it now.

It's almost surely the tail lights leaking into the rear inner fender/quarter-panels and then draining into your rear seat area.

I believe that. Plus the fact that on that 11.23 pass you..er...well...that is...you didn't exactly cut the fastest tree I've ever seen. It looked like you lost at least a second. Imagine if you were awake:icon_razz.

...I know, it's like talking to the dead. ...JB weld... (said with disgust)... I'm walking away....(wipes hands, doesn't look back) .

I'll have you know my turd is clearcoated and polished and waxed...(I guess I put you in your place:sarcasm:).

Maybe someone more familiar with jdm stuff could help you, but they're probably going to need the model/production numbers off the ECM (it's called an electronic control module or ECM), and they're not legible on the photo's you posted. Are there any numbers stamped into it?