Search results

Its Electric ! My fans, not the song & line dance ! Manual overides, 106* summer days, A/C always on. 180* thermostat. I'm Kool !

Yea...just get all the stuff for the 5 speed swap, then go out and beat the hell outa the auto till it breaks.:biglaugh:

Looks good. What is the depth of the shroud, 3-4"s ?? OK..so you know that the fan blades get the best CFM draw when 1/2 of the blade is into the shroud, and the other 1/2 is sticking out the back, right.??

Hey, I understand ! After my valve job and BHG, over a year ago, I still check everything, all the time, and monitor the gages like a hawk. Its been fine all along, but, after all, it is an MK3.:nono:

Yep, just a few ounces low will cause you to not be happy.:icon_evil That is the nice thing about converting. You can add (top up)some R134a yourself at home.:biglaugh:

A/C and conversions is something we do everyday. WE don't fill the system by the pressures, or the vent temps. (we do use pressure for diagnosis, and to confirm a good operation) WE fill the system by adding the correct amount per the manuf. specs. (I have a book with every vehicle...

Don't take anybody here's best quess. It could cost you $$$.(not them) Go on the ARP website to get your answers.

30 over is safe for sure. You could also have the block sleaved back to stock. If you go too much, you run the risk of too hot, and then the cylinder will distort. Depends what you plan on doing, and how much strain you are gonna place on it.

Going 3lbs up on your cap is not gonna fix your problem. Everyone with a good engine runs fine on the factory spec 13lb cap. Air in the system can cause engine damaging hot spots, and push coolant over the cap. Check in the FAQS section for info on 'burbing the system. Do a 'block...

Sorry guys, but it does not sound like a CSI problem. Why not (you ask)??? Because the CSI time switch does not allow the injector to operate above like 60*. Vacaville is in the middle of Calif. The temp gets very hot there in the summer. Nights a very warm too. I would say...if the car...

That's what I paid here in Calif at the 'good' machine shop in town. They've been there over 50 years. They also adjusted the valves, so all I had to do was bolt it down.

Be sure and use a NEW radiator cap, and about a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. When burbing, lower the coolant level about 2" before starting (just above the tubes). This will help not to overflow at the cap. You want to get ALL the air out, because it can cause 'hot spots' and this is very bad...

Turbo/na are same, except manual trans=70 amp...automatic=80 amps. My cost for a reman is $125 This was a very good thread ! It went up/down...old wives tales/facts. You can trust what I say, because I don't speak unless I KNOW what I say is true. :biglaugh: DON'T remove the battery...

The ECU does NOT control the Cold Start Injector or any of the related components. There is a cold start temp switch/timer located in a water jacket near the thermostat housing. It only gives power to the injector when you're are cranking the starter. And only for 15 seconds. And only when...

Fuel Filter every 60k miles. Air Filter. De-grease the engine and bay. Under engine too. Simple Green straight works pretty good if you let it sit for 1/2 an hour before GENTLY washing it off. Brake spray works good. Never steam clean, or 'car wash' under the hood. You WILL be sorry...

Why did the key break?? You accidentally?? Or did it break while you were turning it??? If while turning, them you probably have a bad ignition cylinder, and will need to replace it. Or, it may happen again, and in the worst of places to leave you car...that's Murphy's Law in action. A...

Was it both wheels?? or just one?? A good LSD diff will hold, and both wheels will get traction. A wornout LSD diff (clutch pack not effective), or a non-LSD diff, will only spin one tire, (the one with the least amount of traction). Changing the oil to a synthetic can only be a good...

Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will clear all codes and also (what I'm getting to) will cause the ECU to 're-learn' the sensor settings and drive paterns. You will then need to go for a 20 min. drive, stop & go, and a little hwy. This may help your problem, and will not cause...

Hey !!! how did you get the photo of 'my' car ??? :icon_conf but that's not my house. and those are 'my' 5 spoke wheels. close, but not the same.:love: and...I LOVE to drive my car every day. In fact, I'd rather DRIVE my car (alone even) than RIDE with someone else.:biglaugh:

These starters DON'T get heat soaked. The exhaust is on the other side of the block. You have other problems. Perhaps the relay, or ground, or just a tired starter. Brushes do get worn out. So when a starter is warm, it takes more current to turn it over.