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I have the 1JZ kit, best to call Aaron and ask him to clear it up.

The Aeromotive kit from driftmotion connects to the front of the fuel rail where the stock dampener goes. That's the kit I have, it came with all the hoses and fitting's and requires removal of the dampener.

The dampener on the fuel rail is supposed to be removed.

Check the connection on the light failure sensor located close to the rear tail light behind the trim. It could also be going bad. You can also read for power on it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=64...

AC delete? Where did you mount the intercooler. Piping powder coated looks sweet.

Try here http://web.archive.org/web/20030614114746/http://1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html or more specifically here on the same link http://web.archive.org/web/20050530222435/http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/chaser.pdf

Sounds like fuel cut. Can you get past 4000 rpm when not boosting? What transmission and ecu are you running?

Tha AC wires won't impact your problem. Do you have a boost and AFR guage?

The horn on the firewall or the horns near the hood latch? Have you pulled the flasher switch and made sure its fully plugged in? That is probably what got smoked.

The link I posted revealed the location of the computer and how to bypass it if you choose to.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=070 Http://supra.co.nz/2013/jza70/jza70tewda.pdf use the tewd for wiring trouble shooting. You can also compare it to u.s models. There is a reason for fuse ratings and wire guages.

Why yes. My old link is now toast but thanks to web archive it lives again. http://web.archive.org/web/20090106002850/http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/april2001/techtips.htm I would suggest making a copy. Granted this doesn't fix the problem but it gets rid of it. To fix it you will probably have...

What happened with the OP? was the problem resolved? This thread got jacked a few times. If the diodes are going bad the alternater will start to read ac voltage and you will notice that your lights vary in intensity at low rpm's. If the alt doesn't read AC then I would try the regulator...

Since your wiring has been modified you will need to read end to end from the ecu to all sensors.

Yes no codes stored. If your interested this link explains how to read the codes on a Japanese ECU for your engine. http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/01/2jzgte-vvti-obd-scanning-and-information/ Very cheap to do it seems.

Do you have the diagnostic port in the engine bay and stock ECU? If so you can retrieve them the normal way.

Check codes and go from there.

I don't believe the stock pea shooters would last long while drifting due to being under almost constant boost.

The metal wheels were good for around 18 PSI but they only put out so much flow and they were around 550 apiece to rebuild. At the time it was worth it but the rebuild I am doing now is going to be a single swap. I held out for awhile waiting for a cast iron manifold for a single conversion to...

I had to have rebuilt twins with metal wheels to see just over 300 WHP on stock ECU, 370 injectors 3 inch exhaust and compression was over 170 on each cylinder. I am having that motor rebuilt right now and have another 1J installed with the stock twins, stock ECU, 370 injectors same exhaust and...