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Yes. One has a gray plug while the other is green.

Your old CPS is still good...

Could be a bad coil. Being a cross coil design there are more than one of them in the gage. Need to eliminate the other stuff first though...

Unsure why you disconnected the TEMS "since" you have an antenna but they're unrelated other than sharing the same ground point...

You said no spark. 300mv is low though.

>>Receiving IGF signal from the ignitor to the ECU, which has continuity to ECU and voltage raises to 0.3 volts on crank.<< Under the circumstances that right there is suspicious...

Unfortunately that appears to be true. Ah well, I tried...

Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to do the writeup...

http://bit.ly/1cZ6ExE

If the MIL came on steady after engine start a code was stored but if keep alive power (BATT) is lost thereafter (ignition wired for example) said code(s) will be erased. The second way the MIL will come on is if the system is in diag mode. Since 51 does not set, the system must be in that mode...

Then go ahead and replace it. Let us know what happens. As for your thinking out loud, there's too much anal-lyzing in it. Forest for the trees. And the O2 sensor doesn't measure fuel. It measures O2...

That would be the CSI thermal time switch but yeah, those failures jive with your symptoms. Especially the coolant sensor. An open circuit there results in a default of about 180 F, hence no cold start enrichment...

Based on your posts replacing the AFM is a bad move. As for the 12 volt thing, if you had it you'd know what it is. Try running the engine with +B and FP jumped. If the stumble goes away the pump relay is suspect.

Not a good sign...

^ Good suggestions, although the questions are odd, considering the source...

12 volt mod? If not could be a bad fuel pump relay, something not unheard of in these cars. I've seen it twice. Then again you ought to be focusing on the mixture problem first.

If there's no 34 there's no fuel cut...

In this particular case the WB shouldn't even be in the equation. After all if he brought the car to a shop they wouldn't be using it and rightly so. It's not at all needed.

^ That's it, thanks. Good thing the 100 watt H3s I ran never had to deal with that :)

That's the solar sensor. Unlikely to be the problem. Now the in-car temp sensor, if bad, will drive the system amplifier too much either way. It's all in the TSRM...