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Well, putting aside the emissions thing easiest method is to route down to a draft tube. Better to do what 7M4EVR said though. You're welcome, padawan...

Yep. Input signal #6: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=044 Reed switch (4 pulses per rev iirc) in the combo meter except for the digi-dash in which case an optical encoder is used...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=6 That pressure is supposed to be there. Controlled by a check valve in the evap canister. Other questions, ask....

Actually the ECU does know and care but you're right in that it won't matter in this case. OP: Clean and lube the thing now or you'll be replacing it...

Recently built a couple using 80% lowers. One aluminum, the other polymer. Cheap and no serial numbers. Gotta love having a mill...

Now that's entertainment...

Note the CO now. As I said the engine wasn't in fuel control. You could have easily identified the problem yourself by following the TSRM procedure for verifying O2 sensor cross counting. Ah well, live and learn.

Are ye man or mouse? Or Texan? it's not that hard. Just do it...

CO indicates a lack of fuel control. It's also why the NOx is down. As 3P said you need to supply the other numbers, especially O2, although I expect it'll be too low to accurately read. That said understand something: the efficiency of a new catalyst may well score a pass but will not resolve...

No pissin' match intended. Better to just let this thread and others from the OP stand on their own merit. Quite logical indeed and exactly right!

Crack me up. That's one reason I suggested not replacing it. If that thread is re-read it should be clear why I went in that direction after suggesting that's where you *should* be looking. It'll also become clear you know squat about EFI and, from this one thread, squat about cooling. That's OK...

That tool works and ones just like it costing a whole lot less work just as well...

I hear the stock setup is good and doesn't "cost" motors. That said the Dakota Digital unit sounds like it'd work for you: http://tinyurl.com/klpe22o Course, it's not the controller that usually causes problems. It's shoddy installs by people who don't know what they don't know...

Oil of snake is not recommended. For the cold use as thin an oil as possible. A winter rating of 5 or better still 0 is good...

You said the afr is rich only upon cold tip-in which is opposite of what normally happens. What is it steady state cold operation? Before the engine warms up?

Mine always worked great. Maybe because I know what ABS is supposed to do.

Crack me up. Good luck. If it were me I'd do more "extended testing"...

Sounds like a CPS problem...

While some of that is correct, general speaking, the entire point of EFI is to make the engine driveable under all conditions and since this one normally enters closed loop very quickly, far before reaching operating temp, he clearly has a problem...

Sucked in again. Bloody hell...