Not going to argue with someone who clearly has NFI what they're talking about. I only want the membership to know they shouldn't listen to anything you have to say on this subject.
You say forums are filled with opinions but others call it misinformation. Regardless, people nearly always want the truth.
Why hard, especially since it's so wrong? As for Nash he needs to learn something about plasma physics:
Nuff said...
1) Unsure of why the corn-fuzion. The TSRM is pretty clear.
2) The TPS is obviously a wear item. Wouldn't hurt to replace it no matter what. Something is goofy with yours though.
3) 51 can be used to show the idle signal portion of the TPS is working. It can also be used to show the AC...
The 51 means part of the TPS, the part associated with the feeler gauge stuff and *unassociated* with code 41, is working.
This however....
...isn't right and and needs to be investigated. There should be never be infinity between VTA and E2 regardless of where the throttle is.
That's what I meant. Not while driving. Why would you think that? Using the MIL to output codes and having it come on when a fault occurs are two different things.
Other codes? Maybe a 51 all the time or just when the pedal is slightly pressed? If so, which?
You should not have infinity with the throttle fully closed. Should be the opposite: low resistance.
Code 41 is caused by one of three conditions:
1) VTA less than 100 mv (VTA is shorted to...
We're talking about manometers. Should be plenty of surplus Dwyer types on ebay but the new electronic ones are cheap enough. It's what I have. Course, 50 cents worth of clear urethane tubing and a bit of water works too...
There ya go. Much less current though.
There's combo flux/hard pastes available that might make the job easier:
http://tinyurl.com/m5w2db3
I still vote for a new switch.
No, I'm talking about inches of water. Used to measure lower pressures than inches mercury because water is less dense (duh). As Pryo kinda said it's about pressure under the valve covers and crankcase, not manifold pressure. The value is an indication of combustion blowby and how well the PCV...
Problem is true silver solder, the kind jewelers use (known as "hard"), isn't solder at all but more akin to a brazing alloy due to its high silver content. With such a high melting point you'll need a torch, preferably a small one like the Smith Mini. I have one and it's great for precision...
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