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Ok if thats the problem how do i go about fixing it? Ive tightened the fitting as much as possible without stripping it.

The leak is coming from within the turbo. Might be from the brass nipple to the wastegate line. i cant be sure, but its not coming from the pipes since i was able to spray them with soapy water without bubbles.

Im getting FC when i romp on the throttle in the early rpms (3-4k). I tested my IC pipes and i have a very small leak inside the turbo itself. But the system can still hold pressure for at least 5 minutes losing about 2psi per minute. Doesnt seem like enough cause FC. Are there any other...

Im hitting FC at around 16psi, but even i punch it, im barely hitting 16lbs before it cuts out. Something leads me to believe its very premature. Other than IC leaks what else can cause fuel cut?

Im getting some fuel cut when i punch the throttle hard early in the rpms before boost even maxes out. Ive done a boost leak test and found there's a slight hiss right at the turbo itself. Its very slight but audible. No leaks anywhere else. When i tested it, the IC pipes held a positive...

I sold my black hardtop turbo for a 300ZXTT. I eventually came back to a MKIII.

have you checked your AFM? the sensor may be going bad.

I was running a mix of 100 and 91 which probably averaged around 94-95. The turbo is running an internal wastegate.

I forgot to add that im already running a MKIV fuel pump. I do know the SAFC is working because i can adjust it at idle and i hear the idle richen up or lean out if i make adjustments at 1000rpm. My other concern, how is it, that i can only get 18psi on max settings. I have a 14lb wastegate...

I got my Supra dynoed today, and confirmed my seat of the pants feeling. I ended dynoing 316rwhp on 18psi. Seems as though a few others who have dynoed their SP61GT have gotten 380-400rwhp. This was using a dyna-pack, whether or not it makes a difference. A few problems i encountered. I maxed...

I do recall a few years ago, a few members from other forums having to wait a very very long time to receive their wheels. Iforged's customer service is non-existent. I would never purchase their wheels directly just because of that reason.

I believe making those adapters need to be approximately 1" thick. Might want to figure out what the offsets of the bmw wheels are and see if you have enough clearance to push those wheels out 1" with the adapters. Personally, unless you really really like those wheels, i would prefer to just...

Actually ive wondered how hard it would be to fab some brackets for Evo calipers. they use Brembo 4pots which are pretty good size and larger than the 350Z Brembo calipers, the rotor size i believe is 12.6".

I was the first one to try using the 350Z Track Rotors. since grinding the hub of the MKIII to accept the MKIV TT rotors was a serious PITA. Summary ......Nightpager kit: brackets -300zx calipers -MKIV TT rotors (inside hub needs to be ground down) -350Z Track rotors (not hubcentric)

When i had eibachs, the ride was nice and compliant but i hated the raked look. There was too much gap in the rear.

Im running with the Tein HA 12k/6k and its borderline stiff for me. Im considering upping the front spring rates to 14K since the wheels keep hitting the top of the fender approaching hills or reaching the bottom of hills. My front isnt even that low. If you soften the rears up, i believe you...

Definitely post your results when you do get tested, im sure many of us are interested in the outcome.

The difference you felt when you added the ST sway bars in, is about the difference you will feel when you remove the ST bars and put in a Whiteline one. The stiffness is noticeble, and feels much more stable.

245 35 19 275 30 19 Would be the optimum combo. The overall diameters will be very close to one another. And the tires widths are perfect for the rims widths you want to run. Unless you like stretching the tire like some guys.

I would recommend a 19x8.5 in a +35 offset.