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I remember seeing some kind of thread not on SM, but on some other site where a guy had a metalic chrome 6/7 blade fan on his 7m about a year ago and i haven't been able to find the thread ever since. If some one could be the first, hopefully you Reign....Do a write up PLEASE!

out turbos are external. Its your can't miss the wastgatge....you see it when u look at the turbo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Used-CT26-Turbo-Toyota-Supra-MR2-Very-Clean-Honda-Acura_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ170088667819QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I just googled this to show...

yea... if it's squealing at a higher pitch your turbo is dead. I've been oin a car with a turbo death whine. The way your describing it thats what i think it is, but know one is 100% sure unless you check for shaft play and the turbo itself. Boost leaks wouldn't make a loud squealing noise.

well check for boost leaks.....vacuum lines and IC pipes. like one of the other members said remove the accordian hose and check for shaft play. Keep driving the car if you notice it whining louder everytime you drive it's done. Try to get a sound clip if you can it would really help.

If you drive it again and you hear it screaming like a Banshee.... the turbo is dead and it's time for a rebuild. If you dont want to add upgrades and poor your money out your wallet like buying a new feul pump, 550inj, lex afm etc., just send your turbo to Jon @ MDC(vendor here) and he will...

Turbo death whine. ^^ what he said, turbo is done.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128 theres all the vacuum lines.

Check all vacuum lines. Check your intercooler pipes, especially the IC pipe that goes to your IC to your turbo as that takes most of the beating because of the heat; bend them and see of they crack. iF they do have cfracks replace them, either find some stock ones for cheap that are in good...

I thought he was talking about the supporst brackets...

If your teacher doesn't own a SUPRA I wouldn't listen to a damn thing he says, if you listen to him then i see BHG in your future. It already a proven fact ARP is the right way to go especially when changing your HG. Saying it's a waste of money is prolly the dumbest thingsI've ever heard...

Nothing should be welded.... all of them should be bolted on.

Just got back from Olive Garden and i ordered Braised Beef and Tortilloni. Very good!

I'll make a donation... If i saw this earlier i would of put in immediatley. Thanks SC

^ agreed...I'd go for studs though. Studs are stronger and aren't that much compared to buying bolts so might as well spend a couple more $$$. Stock bolts are good as well, but there are more of a one time deal, once you put them in and TQ them they will lose it strength if you try to reuse them.

Theres problems with RC and PTE injectors? Please send me the links becuase i have never heard such a thing. I would get 680 injectors BTW if your thinking about turning the boost and shooting for 600+hp. if your looking for cheap....port the the stock exhaust manifold and buy a bolt of...

You need to find a way to garage it. BTW the car is f'n sexy.

Safc go for about 200 shipped around here sometimes even less if your lucky. Invest in this one or Maftpro.

The 2nd picture is FTW. Have you dyno'd the beast yet. I'd like to know the specs on the car.

IIRC, there were 500 Turbo A cars made in black for racing. So, they only have 500 TB, 500 bigger IC, etc If I'm wrong someone correct me. I have to decide by summer so i can get this build on the move. Thanks guys for all the info.

Well i bought a Turbo A TB for $250.00 which i thot was a great deal since there is only 500 made. I wanted to keep the stock engine bay look The problem is that I finally came with the decision to get a FFIM. I know a Q45 is around 150ish plus shipping, but i would just like to know your...