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Yep. The pussification of the American male continues...

Well, there ya go. Had he done the testing suggested, especially the snap throttle test, he would have easily found that.

Sent a PM asking. If he has it set up he'll get an email. After that it's up to him.

Yeah, would have been nice to know. It was probably something simple. Often is.

You be welcome. Off the top of my head and without looking at the prints (gotta cover my ass here) there's very little integration between the two. Which is how it should be.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/ That will tell you everything you need to know.

Pop the plastic fuel damper cover off, pressurize the fuel system using the diag block, then disconnect and watch the damper screw for a few minutes. Not as accurate as a gage but at least it'll show if pressure is rapidly dropping.

I still have the cassette along with the factory car cover, cable, two factory TCCS analyzers, and a bunch of parts including a freshly overhauled turbo. I really should sell that stuff but it's buried in a storage unit.

Yeah, something isn't right. 500 mills alone is way too much parasitic.

That's actually a good guess. Check rest pressure.

"Total Sophistication". Hopefully someone will understand that...

Check the 10 amp AC fuse in the pax side kick panel first: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 If that's ok you're likely low on refrigerant. Edit: Actually, now that I look at the schematic, if the relay under the battery tray is clicking that fuse is good...

Well, if the clutch isn't being energized what exactly is clicking? The only other thing that would click is the clutch relay under the battery tray and if that's the case the problem may be as simple as a broken relay or wire. On the other hand the clutch magnet coil could be open circuited...

AC not working could mean several things. Problems with the clutch not energizing, problems with the refrigeration system, or problems with the dampers for example. Quick check of the clutch circuit is to just turn the key on (no need for starting the engine) and light up the AC button. The...

Never had that problem but then again when I run a tap down there I go all the way to the bottom of the hole not to where the thread stops.

Fwiw it's not that difficult to mold hoses especially if all you're doing is changing the ID. Bends aren't all that hard either.

Using the starter always worked for me...

So you jacked up fuel but left the J Tube restriction in place? I'd be looking there first.

River in Egypt...

Since it's not sealed it would be very difficult to pressurize the overflow reservoir to the point of failure.