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Me thinks you're confusing head gasket with valve cover gasket. Buy new ones. If you have spark and fuel the engine should start. Check timing, both valve and ignition. Invest in good tools. And study the TSRM until your eyes fall out...

Or he could move to free 'Murica. Face it OP, living under the iron fist of the Caliban isn't for the faint of wallet.

Since emission work requires specialized knowledge and equipment you may not have much choice. Did you fix the EGR? All that stuff you did is nice but other than possibly the radiator it won't bring NOx down. Nor will new plugs and wires correct bad timing. And Seafoam is bad for the catalyst...

A few observations: 1) Shielding should be grounded at one end only to prevent ground loops. You can do it at the ECU (it's done at the manifold from the factory.) 2) Dunno what you mean by "on" but a constant short between IDL and E2 will *prevent* a TPS related code 51 from being triggered...

You did all that and are still at a loss?

^ He doesn't have a hot wire type MAF and cleaning what he does have would be a very bad idea...

Yep, IGt is the main timing signal that originates from the ECU. The others are coil pack selection and spark confirmation. Only confirmation (IGf) is fed back to the ECU. No IGt = no spark. That said a scope is needed to check it properly. Since the ECU deals in low level logic signals the 12...

Oops. I did indeed. Thanks Nick. Corrected. Well, you could RTFM. Or just buy a bigger alternator...

Does it fast idle on a cold start or idle up when the headlights are on? If so check the AC input signal to the ECU. Quick way to do that is go into diag mode and look for a code 51 with the AC button lit and your foot off the gas pedal. The engine does not have to be running. Verify the code...

Depends on how long and how bad but generally speaking oil will damage a converter by coating the substrate and preventing the exhaust stream from coming into contact with the wash coat containing the actual catalyst. That can result in anything from a mild loss of converter efficiency to...

As they say when all else fails RTFM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=107 You should also hear it clicking just after engine shutdown as it returns to the wide open home position. Doesn't mean it's 100% working but it's a place to begin.

OP's mechanic is incompetent. That said it's highly unlikely the old bolts have ever entered their plastic region. Having them at stock torque with a MHG isn't good though.

If you're still using the ISCV the throttle plate should be fully closed. Set it first then set the TPS. When finished check that there's no code 51 with your foot off the pedal.

Follow 3p's advice. It's the best given thus far. Anyone capable of properly interpreting your emissions report can see the O2 sensor is working. As for Bosch sensors I've used them with with zero problems. Hell, they invented the damn things...

The engine appears to be in fuel control. The EGR doesn't look like it's working though.

Gotta say...a great thread done right by knowledgeable people. SM at its finest.

He's had a code 51 the entire time. Assuming it's TPS related (as most are) that means the idle speed control system is not functional.

Now if only you could spell manual you'd be a real expert...

Most of the advice given is sound, especially about keeping the tank full. However do not start the car every few weeks. Bad things will happen to the oil and by extension the engine.

Yes indeed, nicely done. Hope all the splines got cleaned and re-lubed before that shaft went back in.