These are from SupraofDoom's classified ad. The first picture looks like there is only 1 hold for the rear, but thats because the first hole is obstructed:
You can see both holes clearly in these:
in my haste to get started, I forgot the camera again... Anyway, I didn't swap engines over -- we quickly found that the stock turbo was completely shot and is the likely cause of the spyhunter smoke screen. Compression isn't great, but ~5% variation is definitely not bad (180, 182, 175...
start with the hole closest to the end (softest rear bar = "safest" handling). If it understeers more than you like, move to the inner hole.
ST has 2 holes, whiteline has 3.
after talking a bit with my buddy we're going to cheat and throw a felpro HG kit on my spare 7m and install it in the meantime. This shouldn't take more than an afternoon, so hopefully I'll be able to make the thunderhill track day on the 11th...
I'll then go with an overbore/forged pistons on...
You can stiffen the rear sway bar for free. Just use a press to lengthen the flat section at the end (squishing the round part) and drill another hole just inside the stock hole. This shortens the lever-arm so it takes more force to twist the bar. The result should be a slightly better...
You shouldn't be hitting fuel cut at only 9psi on a ct26-57 unless you're boosting in death valley in sub zero temperatures -- check, recheck, and triple check for boost leaks because you have one. On my old 60-1 CT26, I would hit fc at 11-13psi depending on weather. A 57 should be very...
Parts list from Toyota (I won't be getting everything at once). Note these part numbers are from the online EPC and many have been superseded -- your dealer shouldn't have a problem though...
Getting for sure:
Part number quantity price each Total
Toyota (from Champion):
engine...
This won't be a crazy build, ultimately I'm looking for a nice reliable driver that puts out 400-450rwhp on 91octane and handles well enough for me to challenge the fastest street-driven cars on lapping days.
Tomorrow the work begins in earnest, but I figure I'll post my plans now. When...
It would (will?) be more than worth the price if (when?) SS gets a CARB exemption (would have to be packaged with a FMIC kit).
A cast FFIM can actually get an exemption if someone went through the hassle, there's 0 chance of getting a fabricated sheet metal intake manifold past CARB
CP racing used to make ones like that for the front & rear, but I think they went out of business. Here is a picture of their MK2 supra bar (couldn't find a mk3 pic -- it wasn't in web archive)
They primarily sold on ebay for $150-$175, but were made to order so not many people got them...
Sweet! Looks like Aaron has really done a lot of work these last few years...
Doh you're right -- the part number I have is for a Toyota remanufactured rack, not new... P/N 44250-14110-84 through champion Toyota ($237.18)
Toyota charges $300+ for the powersteering line (more than a new steering rack!), $200+ for the main fuel line and I think ~$100 for the short line going to the cold start injector. Are that many people still running the original 25-year old soft fuel lines?
PS how about an aftermaket oil...
Yes, you'll need to remove the pan and clean off the old FIPG from both mating surfaces. Best done by pulling the engine from the car (so you might as well replace the other seals/gaskets too), but it is possible to drop the front crossmember (ends up being basically as much work for far worse...
A tube of FIPG is $10.50 for christ's sake.
As for an engine gasket set, I've used fel pro and another generic in the past with meh results. I always just use Toyota gaskets now (a complete engine gasket set is $380 from Champion -- its worth the extra $100-150imo).
Yes & no.
Most of the...
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