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I want to bite a chunk out that ass in the pic below your vid :naughty:

We have the technology we can rebuild it.:kaboom:

As much as someone is willing to give you :wiggle:

A healthy (new) stock head gasket (with a straight head and block), with fresh bolts torqued down to 72lbs/ft will hold 12psi boost all day long (on a CT26). I did mine 3 years ago and have covered 20,000 miles without so much as a hicup, I did a compression test a month or so back to see how...

If you torque the timing belt tensioner to more than 36lbs/ft you get a fair bit of deflection in the wall of cylinder #1 enough to give you blowby.

Going lean for a few seconds when the throttle is closed is normal, all fuel is shut off then reinstated when you reach idle or you tip back in on the throttle.

Is there any way or re hosting Dowards VE tutorials as mkiiitech is still down and I want to get on with tuning via VE tables??

But without a turbo I bet the torque is 100 lbs/ft lower than with a turbo.

I doubt anyone has ever done it, probably not much of a gain over the stock twins.

So how do you stop a clunking diff? Mine has done it from the day I got my car. Is it because the diff has lost all the preload?

I find that figure hard to believe, even at there peak f1 engines in V10 form were reving to 20,000rpm and 1000hp. That is still only 1hp per 3cc, I would like to see a link to a 5000hp 1 liter N/A engine.

IJ thats good for a Supra but not good if your wanting to save money on gas, my last daily driver (before I got rear ended) did 50 mpg no matter how I drove but the down side was it only had 72hp.

only way to improve your MPG is to get a different car, the absolut max you will ever get out of a supra is 30mpg and that is driving like an old woman and then what would be the point of having the car??

Is your fuel pressure regulator getting good vac/boost??

140 mph gps confirmed, was showing 150mph on the speedo. Could have gone on well past 150 but was catching traffic pretty fast. here is a vid of a pull from 80 - 130 10psi stock ct26, everything else stock...

Have you checked the EFI fuse? jump fp b+ in the diagnostic box to check the fuel pump is working.

I thought good operating temp for oil was 80 - 90*c (176 - 194*f) 140*f is 60*c which to me is a bit on the cold side. I was always of the opinion oil and coolant should run at the same temp (or there abouts)

Use it to demist the rear window:wiggle:

A retorque after 25K is a bit hit or miss, you could disturb the gasket and cause problems or it could be fine its a gamble at this stage.

Gives your engine more torque:sarcasm: