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I have done many dyno runs and have never seen anyone lose 35hp on a correction.

I don't think you can adjust boost on the fly without having a laptop out. Correct me if Im wrong. I don't think there is an external scramble boost switch.

+1 on the oversized kit from driftmotion. I had the same problem and it fixed it.

I enjoy large amounts of time and money lost for little reward, along with my old lady bitching as the cherry on top.

That f'n sucks.

Pull the plugs and put about a teaspoon down each cylender and turn it over by hand about 10 times, then crank with efi fuse out till pressure is up on guage like the other guy said, lack of lube is your biggest enemy. Just my .02

O well, anyone want a egt that suddenly became useless to me.:3d_frown: Thanks for the help guys. I should really get some glasses.

Insurance companies suck, honestly even in perfect condition with a great company and full coverage you will get about 3500. Insurance dosen't cover any aftermarket additions, or custom paint unless specified in the policy. And the minus your deductiable from that.

Sorry, I ment boost pressure sensor. lol

I would t off of the origional map sensor and just run it to where ever you want to mount it. As long as the hose is less then about 3 feet you won't get any pressure/vacume drop. My only other suggestion is don't T off of the BOV vacume line. Good luck.

It is plug and play if you get the harness with it. You don't want to change to a lex afm because the f-con is pre-programmed to run with your stockish setup. It dosen't eliminate the afm, you would need a VPC or MAFT-PRO with speed density to eliminate that. All the f-con does is use a set of...

I am trying to wire my greddy egt into the ems but I need a little clarification. Here is a link to the EGT wiring diagram. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/greddy_egt/ I want to know if I take the [Yellow- external wiring option wire] and connect it to the 2-6 (EGT #1) RTD type EGT input...

I did, I thought mine sagged and I was always bottoming out.

I am running the AEM EMS with a map sensor, AIT sensor and no isc valve, no problem no issues.

Lining the drive shaft up DOES matter. Maybe not as much as on a two piece as on a one piece shaft, that I don't know, but the process is called phasing. You have to make sure that the tailshaft u-joint and the diff u-joint line up, if they don't mate to the driveshaft in the same position that...

I owned a set, drove with them for about 2 years and posted a review in the suspension section. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9476 I thought that the springs sagged after a year and I had rubbing issues even with stock size tires.

Does anyone have a pic of how they mounted the p-n-pin the MKIII, I am installing mine and I don't feel comfortable with just a little velcro. What have you done?

About time you joined us!!!:icon_bigg For those who don't know, and not that Joe needs any more added to his credentials. Turbo Joe has huge amout of experiance and expertice in cars, racing and tuning. He was my Dyno instructor in college and helped tune on many of the cars that both Bigaaron...

A good rule of thumb is 1cc to 1hp. So if you have a 550cc injector you theoreticaly could produce 550hp at 100% duty cycle. BUT, you don't want to run your injectors past about 90% and even less of a precentage of duty cycle is better, about 85% is efficent and you will not run into any...

If you put it on the return side of the P/S and not the pressure side, it would work better. Also the rad is about 160 and I don't think the p/s wants to run that hot, usually there is just a small cooler(small single tube with fins) I think thats because it runs cooler then your other systems.