Search results

Great that you've found it. And while I - and many others on here- refer to a problem like yours as "vacuum" leak, maybe "air leak" is a better description as it's metered air that leaves your engine before it could be used for combustion purposes. That includes both vacuum and boost states of...

I'd say big vacuum leak under boost. Some older hoses might just have gone out under the pressure of your new-found power @ 14 psi.

What's your Vf signal doing?

So you put a cometic MHG on an undecked un-resurfaced block ? If so, did you do a compression test yet? Maybe it's the language barrier or a lack of intel on this issue, but to me it seems you have might a faulty head gasket if you just swapped the stock head gasket for a MLS gasket and only...

^D.J.T the 7MGTE has a low impedance circuit. You can use high impedance injectors in a low impedance circuit. No problem. I removed the resistor pack to be sure it would be perfect, but you really don't have to do that. Low or high imp injectors in a 7MGTE, both will work. @topicstarter...

I've had that grinding noise once (didn't see the video until now, sorry) on my 7M and it was from the oil pump pulley, which I tightned too much and one spoke was broken and grinding all over my timing belt. An idle this rough can be caused by the timing belt which skipped one notch or so. Can...

That happens when you do not have a functioning bov. what about it?

the open bov and safc have nothing to do with a car not revving past 3000rpm. you're on the wrong track. Set the s-afc to 0, install a stock bov if you want to, but not revving past 3k is mostly due to a big boost leak (check the lower IC piping) or a timing issue. And YES you CAN run a BOV...

Maybe you should also wash the car and give it a quick polish to see whether the stumble gets less when the car is nurtured some more. Whenever I'm ill I always feel better when someone washes me and tucks me in so...

First check the spark plug again. It may be cracked in the porcelain part of the spark plug. Also, check your coilpack for cracks. And last but certainly not least, check the spark plug gap. :)

For drive-ability's sake you could get a single disk spec stage 3+ disk ?

Did you also check you spark plugs? A crack in the ceramic part can also cause hesitation of your engine.

Broken coils wil cause hickups, yes.

32 to 34 psi @ idle is stock. Be sure to use a gauge that's filled with liquid so the needle moves smoothly. it's normal for the psi to rise when you rev the car.

Did'nt the vf signal change after unplugging the o2? Leave the hac alone, it's not your (main) problem. I believe pressure can be read before the fuel rail and if so, the fpd spot will work but don't quote me on this. An enginerauto-revving at idle is indeed a vacuum leak somewhere. In...

I got a professional shop do all the work on the bearings for me. They reinstalled the pistons, main and rod bearings, crankshaft etc. So I got the shortblock back from the engine shop (which is known to be very good and they did a fair share of 7M engines) and put on the head myself and built...

Did you monitor your Vf signal yet, just to see what the ecu is doing? http://www.well.com/user/mosk/Vfsignal.htm Did you temporarily disconnect the O2 sensor, just to see if there is a difference in how your engine runs? Did you temporarily disconnect the AFM, just to see if there is a...

It can be related: 31 Air Flow Meter Signal Diagnosis (7M-GE) Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed. (7M-GTE) Open or short circuit in air flow meter signal. Trouble Area Air flow meter circuit Air flow...

Oh man that looks bad! Yes I will drain the oil and take a look. However, I can't see how anything could get into the engine as all clamps are on, filters in place etc etc. Why I think it's a bearing? Because it really sounds like a bearing gone bad, and when I disconnect the nr.4 spark plug...

@dan So actually you're telling me that I should pull the engine out, inspect the bearings and if the main bearings are still OK, I can replace the rod bearings with the crank in place. If not, then I must pull the head. (Which I will not do). Thanks for the help!