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For sure - swap the turbo out. Have you started troubleshooting yet with the tips provided? No one is going to be able to help you further until you provide more info.

Ok, that's like the pot calling the kettle black - they took 2 identical cars, with the same amount of gas, on the same day on the same track - one with ac on and one with ac off and the windows down. The windows down car went laps farther than the a/c car. What SUPERIOR scientific test did...

Still sounds like turbo seals. Are you getting BHG-style pressure buildup in the cooling system? You need to pull the elbow and look for signs of a leak. You can also bypass the water lines from the turbo and see if the white smoke turns to just blue...

You said you just swapped exhausts - I'm thinking it's an exhaust leak. If everything was fine before the swap, that would be the first thing to check - look for carbon buildup or other signs of a leak.

I'd bet on the turbo seals as well - it's easy to check - run the car for 30 seconds or so, shut it off, pop off the turbo elbow and check for wetness on the turbine...

That's about right - on the highway I get about 23mpg with the ac on, and about 25 with it off

Mythbusters did a test on that - windows down is much better than a/c on. WOT will not disable the a/c clutch: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ac/AC_01.html

The m-500 is cool, the software works well, and the wireless has decent range. The narrowband does not work well for the supra, it's not a plug and play affair to get rid of the stock sensor. The voltage is inverse of what the car wants and you need to create a o2 heater simulator. Seeing as...

Remove it and you hurt the resale value of the car even more

The probe looks like the supra looks like the bmw 8 series in that they are long body 2 door gt cars with lots of rear glass and angular bodies...

It depends on your tune, altitude, location, time of year... The bolt on sp61 isn't that big. Socal this time of year you could get 18#.

400 on an upgraded ct-26 at 18+ psi with a great tune is doable, but not recommended.

t3/4 60-1 stage 5 - 18psi on average after the car was tuned.

Tps, Cps, Isc

yes, you can get to the solenoids with the tranny still on, just drop the pan: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/at/AT_051.html

Ok, if the manual shifting tests work fine you should pull the soleniods and check them for leaks - new ones aren't that expensive either. If the test fails you should take the car to have the line pressure checked. (or do it yourself if you have the tool) I saw your post in the other tranny...

All 7m supra TPS's have 4 wires - ground, power, throttle position, and idle (throttle closed) The auto ecu computes kickdown from a table, not a set position. What car did you get the throttle body from? You'll have to swap TPS's or convert the output of yours to what the ecu is expecting.

The ect ecu will pop a code for bad speed sensors. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/at/AT_015.html Have you tried the manual shifting test yet? That will bypass the shift solenoids and checks 1st, 3rd, and 4th gears. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/at/AT_020.html...

So you are saying that when driving the tranny shifts voltages via the SL1 and SL2 wires goes from on,off to on,on, to off,on to off,off and the tranny does not shift along with it? If the ect ecu is not outputing these voltages, fix the diagnostic light and read your trouble codes to see if...

The stock rail is fine. Get one of the adjustable fpr & dampner removal line kits, and a walbro pump and you'll be fine. 550's would be ok for 450, go bigger if you want more insurance. You might run into tuning problems with bigger injectors if you run the lexus afm - adjusting the fuel will...