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Ok, that shift is hard to test manually because you can't get the tranny to go into 2nd - just 1, 3, and 4. When it misses a gear, where does it end up? Are you stuck in a certain gear? Compare it to this chart: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/at/AT_012.html And see if your...

The shift solenoids are bypassed completley when you unplug the computer and shift manually with the stick alone. What gear won't the tranny shift into?

This sounds exactly like the CPS being a tooth off. Keep in mind when you insert the cps with everything looking correct it will rotate as it gets into the hole. Even with a really messed up TPS you will be able to bring the timing down below 5 just by rotating the cps. Reinstall the CPS...

Well, no. Actually it's not a big deal if you take out the check valve - isc backflow dumps back into the intake as metered air, so no problem. Plus the isc is cranked down pretty far at wot so not much air is going to backflow. You might loose a half a psi max boost. It could definitely...

Yea, that's what the group a supra had. Forget going over speedbumps though - you'll rip it off.

Turn the boost back down to 12, get at least a full exhaust then spend the money to dyno or wideband tune.

Actually, you need to get the timing to jump to above 12. The reason it's not jumping is that car is not seeing you are at idle. The problem (code 51) is that the idle contact inside the tps is bad or your tps needs adjusting. If you've never replaced the tps, count on the idle contact being...

If you remove the system entirely, which is not recommended - (the system improves ring sealing and increases power) DO NOT cap off those two large hose barbs - you need to relieve the crankcase pressure or you'll blow seals. EDIT: you mean PCV, right? PVC is the plastic pipe you plumb your...

Well the greddy was a bit smaller than the old HKS upgrade. SP puts together a bunch of turbos, all on their site would be larger than the greddy. The greddy kit is overpriced if you're going to buy it new - there's better cheaper alternatives.

Save up some more cash and spring for the real deal - the full dual ball bearing gt35/40. Quick spool and full 500 hp potential. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-006&Category_Code=GRT

had a good post tuesday, actually

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If your car has some miles on it it's normal. It's blowby oil from the PCV system. Search.

Yes, lowering the tension lets lesser pressure open the valve. You need to make sure you are getting proper vacuum on the bov - try running a new silicon line from the tap on the intake manifold. Get rid of any of the plastic filters or reducers that may be in the way. Then you just adjust...

If your BOV is fluttering - ie. you have a bov that you should be able to hear and it sounds like it should, but is just fluttering you usually need to tighten up the spring, not remove or release tension. If you are getting compressor surge you will hear a lower, deeper flutter, and you will...

The easiest way to bleed is to jack the rear, start the car, put it in gear so that you are bleeding with vacuum on the master cylinder, and cycling the abs... Works the first time every time.

A good reference for turbo maps is: http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/maps/ "New" turbos are in no way night and day different than "old" turbos. Correct matching of the turbo to the engine is the key. A correctly matched GT turbo will only have a 2% benefit in efficiency than it's old...

Use the lightest weight you can that you're not burning up. On my old motor with 100K I was using 20w-50 and only burning up a negligible amount. That's about as thick as I would go though, and I live in Socal for reference. The motor would eat through a quart of 10w-30 in 1000 miles or so...

Just don't crush any supras with that...

Well, read the code to start with: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/br/BR_51.html