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Been a K&N fan for a long time. Still have one in our daily beater. Went with the Amsoil recently (nanofiber sumthin'). There are air filter studies out there and the oiled ones (specifically K&N) ranked lowest. So, when spending $50 for a new filter, I went with the Amsoil, since it ranked...

Ordered parts needed for 12v mod, but did not find much on the propane relay. Still very interested in a bit more safety... any new ideas/updates?

Oh noes... U really gotta try REALLY hard to end up in the WOS. 2x, wow.

...Soon as I get a chance, I was gonna replace the starter cable anyways, and re-do the gorund, just to make sure. I was jumping right from the battery, using a battery charger in the "jump start" setting.

Also check w/Toyota (vendors section here). I bought a set of the rear hardlines for the MKIV for less than $30 a few years back. I am sure they have the lines available and may be worth your while, since they'd already be shaped and have the fittings for your application. Good luck!

Saw where someone on SF (maybe an Australian member) had tried one, but had a different housing and would not properly mount to the MKIII exhaust manifold. Seemed inexpensive enough, but designed for a different car... Just make sure you check it out 1st and make sure you get from a reliable...

Thanks... was assuming it'd be okay, but lookin' out for any potential issues with that wire in the engine bay (heat, etc). I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. Started to rain, so did not get to it today. Thanks again!

'kay... So I am getting the "click," but no start deal. I have some new 4AWG audio-power cable and quality audio ring terminal on hand. I have a power distribution block in the engine bay (battery is in the hatch). I'm assuming the existing wire has got a good bit of corrosion inside (it's...

I just sold my extra one to someone in Canada. Unfortunately, they weren't very cheap and I bought an extra, so that the group buy would go through at the time. Had a lot of bites over the last few years, but no commitment 'til now. I also have a spare set of DM bars and tho they are...

Sounds interesting... Though on my ECU #22 is the Fuel pump ECU and #23 is the ACMG (A/C Magnetic Clutch signal). I dunno that the ACMG is a good signal to use, 'cause I thought it controls the AC signal (so that it shuts off at WOT, etc).

Ice cream done, cold beer now ;-) We were hoping to retain the Fuel/pump cut-off feature, but just does not seem to be working for us. Hence, "Let's do the 12v mod and try to incorporate that in there." I've been running mine like this for years (knowing the risks), but if possible to install...

OMG my brain hurts... I have read this thread about 6 times and still end up lost, trying to make a good choice in method to go with :-/ So, here are 2 scenarios where we are looking to do the 12v mod: 1. 1JZ/Pre-89 (was N/A 5-speed) - Hooked up wiring according to Rick's wiring diagrams...

I'd try another speedo... The other thing I am doing is installing a digital sender on the R154 (where mechanical cable went) to produce the signal to the ECU and for the Apexi Rev/Speed Meter I'm installing. I have several clusters around... will look-see if I have an extra speedo. What year...

...when you install the engine/tranny and are ready to roll, to realize that you forgot to connect the R154 reverse light switch and have to lower the tranny & spend an hour to connect it again. $%#$#&(%^$^%$#*

The R154 uses the mechanical cable to provide speed to the MKIII speedometer. The speedometer has a speed output (pink wire) to the ECU, which you use to give the 2J ECU the speed signal. Is that what you're asking?

I added a 2-wire connector and wiring to the Aristo harness, all the way back to B3. Should work the same, just a matter of how you want to route it. I did the same for the tranny's rear speed sensor. Good luck!

I was just helping a friend over the weekend w/their 1JZ swap and was told to use the FC (Fuel Cut-off) signal from the ECU, in place of the FC signal from the 7M ECU... I believe it monitors a couple of other signals to know when to cut off the fuel pump (STA and another one). I am using a 2JZ...

I thought that the 12v mod addressed the FP Relay and kept the stock fuel cut off feature in place... I am getting ready to do the 12v mod in the next few weeks, with the intent of keeping the cut off feature...

Had the same issues and although alignment always was good. I even upgraded to the ST Polyurethane suspension bushings and still rubbed the tire often and it just pissed me off. Anyways, I replaced the rear-subframe bushings and all went to "how it's supposed to be." Good luck!

Replaced the fuel line with a Driftmotion piece and it solved the similar issue with my old 1JZ. May be some restriction in the bends or where it meets the rail. We swapped/troubleshot everything else and that "did the trick." Good luck!