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So what you're saying is that the normal "top/center" of the steering wheel is not at the 12 o'clock position? Kinda normal and not that big of a deal, but if you want to be a perfectionist, just remove/replace the steering wheel. Even if you try to do this several times, the top/center may...

I believe I set them in place, using some assembly lube, as I set the crank onto the main bearings... block turned upside down... Basically, the crank's top bearings and thrust washers in place, as the crank is carefully lowered onto them. Helps to have someone else help... especially to keep...

Sounds like the way to go... When you refer to using a relay, is that the same as the 7M/MKIII starter relay mod (I remember seeing something on this a few years back). If it is, I'll search for the write-up and get this biotch back on the road!! Thanks... I was goin' nuts trying to figure...

Got the starter click issue a bit ago (after a rebuild). Swapped starters w/a known good one, replaced the 0 gauge ground at the battery (in the hatch), replaced battery & terminals, replaced power wire to the starter (from a distribution block in the engine bay. Still getting the click...

Look at the 2JZ TRSM... Tells you how to install them in the proper orientation...

The stock cooler runs along the frontside of the bumper and the in/out is oriented towards the reservoir on the passengerside. When you swap 1j/2J, the PS pump & reservoir is on the opposite side. Now, you run new hose from the reservoir on the driver's side, to the cooler and to the PS Rack...

Exactly... Do NOT use regular heater hose. It will gunk up your PS system (= FUBAR).

Most hose supply places can hook you up w/ATF resistant hoses. Autoparts stores rarely have them, but I've scored 'em there too. Try Goodyear or other hose & pipe supply. There's a Stuart's hose place I use in TX.

As I see it, jumpering at the Diag box is the same as jumpering at the Fuel Pump Relay. In either case, the other relays/signals (large red outline in lower left of pic) are eliminated or cut-off by closing that circuit. This is what we'll probably do tonight... Do you also have the 12v mod?

I use a small (6x10" I think) cooler I got off the shelf at Autozone, mounted in front of radiator (driver side, behind condensor). I also have a recently rebuilt PS rack and seems all good. The stock cooler is a pain to install w/aftermarket intercooler... The lines to it have to run too...

We are having a similar issue with a 1J into a pre-89. Did the 12v mod and the pump runs when B+ and Fp jumpered in diag box (check connector) with the Ign Switch, but not when those signals are jumpered at the FP relay instead (like the 12v mod calls for). Am looking at page FI-70 in the TRSM...

Check your main power signals/circuits (main relay, several power/ground wires at the ECU, etc).

We used the 1JZ wire diagrams from Rick's old site and had some problems with the fuel pump coming on. If yours runs fine, we'd def be interested in how you wired things up. We're looking to do the 12v mod, in the next week or so.

Just leave as is... am working on a friend's 1JZed pre89 this weekend. We left that plug alone also. There were quite a few things that just did not connect "one-for-one" from the 1J harness. Finish all the other wiring and start it up, check for issues, fix issues, start it up again...

I agree... You can do it in an afternoon. Just recently helped a friend who also did not have "brake-bleeding" experience... Took maybe 2 hours for him to do all the calipers (including drying time, 'cause he did want to paint 'em). The MC takes about 30-45 minutes to remove, rebuild...

...how old is the master cylinder? I had to replace one in my 87T and the rebuilt one, caused dragging in the rear wheels. Argued with the auto parts counter people and got a replacement (had lifetime warranty anyways, but they sometimes don't easily take things back). Point being, dragging...

Do a search for Tokico Eibach combo... You should get a bunch of threads about springs we commonly use (and feedback). That should help with your decisions...

Working to put ODBII ECU into 91 2JZ (5-speed/singled)... Using an Aristo harness. Anyone have the pinout/signal diagrams for 96+ Supra w/ODBII ECU? Thanks, E

Agree w/those who've recommended to go play w/a few before deciding. I bought a VERY inexpensive 9mm, just to have around the house/car. Nothing I will miss tremendously if lost/stolen. Was in USMC for 10 years and am comfortable, but w/little kids would never have one in the house (seen too...

I have the same thing and bought a helicoil kit to fix/re-thread the nut, once I pull the bolt back out. I bought a new seatbelt and it comes with a new bolt. I think these are fairly standard and you can easily pull one at the junkyard. Dunno that running a die will get you enough useful...