The lower timing gear, with trigger wheel (for Crank Position/Angle Sensor) is about $112 new from the forum vendors (Jeff at Champion or Curt at Elmhurst). Used ones are cheap and I've given away a few (but am looking for a spare now - to weld the trigger wheel to the gear permanently).
It is...
You need the 1JZ (JZA70) brackets and you can use any of the motor mounts (~91 - 01). The later ones have a small aluminum alignment nub that has to be removed (file, dremel, etc), so that they may properly sit flush, in the brackets.
This is a comparison pic of the oil pumps side-by-side. No volume/flow info tho... The 96+ GE pump does use a crank sensor tho, so it's got the hole/provision for it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/20110422171342.jpg/
I have the same issue and read a few threads on it, without much about the eventual resolution. Seems to be pointing to a ground issue, maybe at the dimmer/rheostat, but could be elsewhere in the ground circuit for the A/C amplifier. The unit still work, just no lights when the...
I have 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear (35mm all around). Perfect fitment in my case. Doesn't stick out too far, or too inside. My fitment is flush and no rub, dropped Tokico/Eibach (polyurethane suspension bushings).
I really don't think 10mm offset is usable, but maybe someone else has more...
Yes for #2 - Although if using a JDM ECU, you can also wire it for the ECU to control (automatically turn off when a WOT, I think). For simplicity, just connect the blue wire.
Can't remember #1... I'll have to check later.
Yes, to stagger the solder points. The wire map/link should show which dash wire/connector (think it's B1 #10), goes to which Aristo harness wire (big plug, I think) for the starter (F1?).
Yes, stagger the solder points, so that the harness does have 1 big lump... I actually used different color heatshrink, so that I could tell which bundles to revisit (if I had an issue with 1 wire, etc).
For which signals, I tied to which connectors/pins, look here...
I bought the rears too, for the same reason. I do like the idea about using them as hand rails... I had removed it while working on the intake, but woulda been helpful when she was trying to reconnect my rear knock sensor. I am going to reinstall both, but with grips/tape fo dem hoes.
I extended once, using standard, off-the-shelf, wires. The harness ended up almost too thick, to pull into the cabin. Just get an old dash/engine harness and cut 20" of wire off of it. Just match the gauge and solder and you extend a handful of wires at a time. Don't cut too close to the...
I extended my harness... This time, I used spare 2JZ ECU connectors (E9 & E10), with about 3 feet of wire (took from a junkyard Lexus). I repinned as needed for 2JZ-GTE ECU and cut at ~18", stripped/soldered/heatshrinked. For the dash connections, I also kept the entire 7M wire/circuits (for...
Yeah, lots of JZers use that hole. I didn't like the idea of stretching the harness like some people do and figured if I had to solder, I'd just rather use the stock engine harness route.
Do it with engine on the stand. Just add 20" and be done... I would've suggested cutting the 7M harness with 20" on it and attaching the signals from the big block/connector from the Aristo harness, and extending the ECU connector by 20"... I just went 18" with my last one and is almost...
The engine is the same as the Supra, so look at the Supra TRSM and it will give you basics on the wiring pinouts, but the sensors and their locations... we can point out in a pic.
On the block, there's an oil pressure switch beside where the A/C compressor goes and slight above that to the...
Nice!!!
Do you have any pics of the hood pin install? I have a couple of sets, but am trying to decide which to go with. The least I can do is install the pin and make sure I have good fitment. My struts are near-new. Will have to shop around for a bad set (threw my old ones out long ago).
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