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IMHO Boston Acoustics componants (SP) sound the best. Great clarity, good mids, soft dome tweeter that isn't too harsh. Why get bass out of a 4 inch, thats what subs are for.

cheap, make me an offer, but as Im in oregon, it would have to be shipped...

First, I doubt that you will be happy with the Lightning Audios. They kinda suck. second, you can buy a line output converter to run additional amps from your head unit. They wont be adjustable from your deck. You can run 3 subs from a mono amp if that amp is 1 ohm stable.

ok, it says A/R .3 on the exhaust housing, sorry I missed that, I had to look past the surface rust.

Ok, here's the skinny. 60 mm compressor wheel, about 57 mm for exhaust wheel, the footprint is 4 1/4 by 3 7/8, 4 bolt flange with a 1 3/4 square hole in the center. the exhaust housing has a round, 4bolt flange that the exhuast will bolt to. (or maybe the wastegate). It's 69mm intake...

it does look similar, but I will get some measurements- and what is an exhaust footprint? Sounds like something from CSI (crime scene investigators) :)

very possible

I have a pre-89 lip sitting in my garage....

wtf is exhaust footprint? never heard of it, but that is probably my partial ignorance showing. So rather than being a smart ass, (it's a late 80s toyota, and I know how fast it is in the quarter) someone could tell me how to measure the impeller, tell me what the hell the footprint is or...

IHI-RHC7: It was bypassed, as in past-tence. it suddenly became un-bypassed, hence the problem.

So I've got this AiReasearch To4 (no "B" or "E" stamp) with 60 A/R stamped in the housing sitting in my garage. I am told after inspection that this is a turbo in good shape. (Minimal shaft play) However, I know next to nothing about it. So how good is it? As in: good enough for 400 rwhp...

ok guys, back from the weeks worth of work, and It seemed that the clutch start switch was at fault. Some new wire, problem solved. thanx for all the help, and the time you guys took to help me out.

the turbo coolant line (upper) could definitely be the culprit. Mine rotted at the hose clamp and sprayed coolant everywhere. Check that out, as well as the coolant return line.

not to burst your limited-slip bubble, but most toyota trucks (about 90%) dont come with lsd from the factory, and the ones that do come with a traction aiding device, it's usually a crappy electronic locker. Too many parts to fail, IMHO, to make it worth putting into a supra. We put supra...

thanks guys, but I have already checked all grounds I can find, no luck. Talk about pissing me off. I even ran a separate ground to the relay, thereby eliminating any grounding issues. Same result. I don't know what to do. Im just gonna keep plugging at it, and maybe with some luck......

Ive got a front bumper and the upper metal peice, both in decent shape. I also have a spare grill or two, from 87 or 88. With emblems, if that even matters. I live in Lebanon, so only a hop skip and jump from you. pm me if interested and I'll call you or something. I also need some misc...

Um....High compression and lots of boost = more bang for your buck, just not the type of bang you're looking for. LOW compression lots of boost, that's what you want :)

Antman: Advice taken, I didn't rewire anything, although none of the terminals are hot with the key in the on or start position. The relay tested fine, and no broken wires or loose connections or anything. The car turns over with a starter button jumpered to the solenoid, but won't fire. I...

New info: I seem to be getting no power to the relay terminals. As in, when I test with a test light, none of the four terminals light up, with the key in the on or start posistion. my understanding of relays is- 1 terminal for power, one for ground, one for load, and one for switch. So at...

Ok, relay is probably bad. I get no clicking from the relay at all. It turns out that this is a dealer only item, so I will attempt to put a universal relay in there. Does anyone see a problem with that?