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Yeah sounds like an alt problem to me - especially since you described how it died gradually. Thats usually how alternators go..... bit by bit until they just dont quite get it done anymore. Sometimes if there is a minor defect contributing to the problem (corroded post, cable, bad battery...

so what happened?

Yeah quake I think that goes back to the type of crimp connector used. I do know that on aircraft solder is used very rarely and many things are crimped - just with a different tool and quality connectors

if you arent getting power to the main relay at all then you need to take the box off and open it up. Check the wire going into the relay and it should go back to the battery.

2 cats on a stock config - the one in the downpipe is the first to clog. Do yourself a favor and get a downpipe or gut it.

Did you look at the wire diagram? And do you have power on the black/red wire?

The O2 sensor plug is next to the o2 sensor.... If C1 is disconnected, you WONT have power on the other side because it is disconnected. When testing for power on all of those other parts you have to keep c1 connected. Does that make sense?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47 Look at this page and see where EFI main relay comes out of pin #2. See how it is black/red? Now that wire should go into the C1 connector just like you have probably been looking at. Follow that wire to each point down...

Maybe the 88 harness doesnt have that wire for number 4 - perhaps you need to find that wire and where the break in the connection is. It should be a black/red wire. Dont forget to check the other components (beside the B+ on the check connector) in the list that run off of the same circuit...

Yeah - take the harness off of the ECU and check the pins for b and b1. Isnt that how you determined if it had power or not on the first page? If you still dont have power at B+ on the check connector than you probably dont have any there either. It is the same circuit.

if B1 and B on the harness end that plugs into the ECU do NOT have power then the ECU change isnt going to help you. If they do have power then it is an ECU issue. If they still do NOT have power as illustrated on the first page, you need to figure out where the break in the circuit is. To...

Hey man sorry I cant help more but I have to go to bed - like I said earlier you can follow that circuit on http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49 as pins 12 and 13 coming out of the ECU. Follow the wire all the way back to the EFI relay and right before you get...

I think we may have sent him into overload

http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50 OK we are making progress. I assume that you have power at pins 1 and 4 on connector C1. The link above explains their purpose. If you have power at pins 1 and 4 but do not have power (DONT FORGET TO PLUG C1 BACK...

And the injectors are on a different circuit so dont worry about those. They are powered directly off the ignition switch.

well the C1 connector is different than the diagnostic connector. I know that on one of the pages it calls the diagnostic connector "C1" as a reference but the actual C1 connector is next to the strut tower. If you do not have power to your B+ on your diagnostic port this is the next thing up...

Ok - so that means that the B+ circuit is not getting power. That wire is connected directly to the EFI relay. There are other components on that wire as well like the o2 sensor, vsv, ISC valve Look at connector C1 on this page...

That circuit is the same that the B1 and B on the ecu pull power from. It is activated by the EFI relay. There are a lot of components that tap off of that circuit. If you have power at the check connector then you have a wire connection issue in the circuit.

Im talking about the check connector that you bridge T1 and TE1 to check the timing. There should be a b+ pin there. What is the voltage on it?

depends on the connection im using. If subject to flex and stress I prefer crimps with heat shrink. In most cases though I prefer solder with heat shrink extending at least one inch down from each end of the exposed portion.