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i took out 24+24+24 buckets in the past two weeks... and the problem is that you have to put them in straight onto the springs. if they give you a little trouble, tap them to one side, or just tap them in, as once they are in, they seat themselves.

could you warp the alternator lines in that high temp "jacket" stuff thats sold for spark plugs to help avoid this???

well its really hard to steer with no engine... hahaha are there any differences? im about to go take some pictures of it to post up.

how do you tell if a car has PPS? i have a 90 turbo. is it in the vin?

im sorry to hear this... i took a bend too fast once in my honda accord... and because i hadnt been driving very long (and it was a STOCK accord) i ended up going up the side of a hill and rolling... not pretty. but i really dont think that ONE beer bottle caused you to crash. i tend to slow...

PM me and we'll talk. i have "people"... like H&R block... lol Im not saying a word in an open public forum though.

i was told that the higher casting numbers meant they were a "newer" head... and that the 13-15 series heads has better exhaust port design from the cressida... BUT. i just went to the junkyard and pulled a #6 head from a 90 cressida. so i dont know if the higher castings = newer car or...

blitz is nice, loud, ans stainless! lol i really hate how the rsr muffler looks... it looks likes kinda deformed...

same thing with an air compressor, get a t so you can hook up a boost gauge while you watch it. I just did this to my friends adjustable wastegate.

eh... first thing i would have done is gotten them powder coated black... those remind me of the honda's i see around here....

porterfield rs4 pads and a set of autozone special blank rotors and i can scare people with how fast i stop... i also have ss lines, but thats not going to make that big of a difference. I think a lot of you would be suprised how a GOOD set of pads will perform. and i believe since the rs4...

could you get some pics of that on the ground? looks pretty nice from the pictures... thats what i wanted to do...

you need some suspension... that thing looks like its ready for a rally race or somethin!

whoops... i worded that wrong. lol. sorry about that. i meant why did your friend even bother going with a spec clutch after the 2nd time of it failing? i have a exedy oem ebay special clutch... i've revved it to redling, and im hard as fcuk on it. Never had a problem... i just hope...

No problems here. and you get to remove that fat ass condensor so the radiator gets more cooling! (at least on my n/a) but i removed all of the shit from my turbo car also. a/c is a waste of space. If i have to i drive in my boxers.

i was thinking about that after i started to read another thread... and if hes still on the stock cat i could see that happening... could a possible fuel leak thats making his car run lean cause the turbo to be red hot??

I LOVE ITB's!!!!!! some crazzzzzy ass cars. where was this anyways???

radiator clogged? check your cat too. and after a long drive wouldnt the turbo be hot? but if your wastegate is stuck closed, then i think your motor would have either blown or you would have no power from the ECU detecting massive knock...

i didnt realize my avatar picture was suppose to be how the car is currently... LOL. :asshole: i was putting my 1-piece driveshaft in when i took that pic. i have a build thread that i update, i have no need to keep downsizing pictures just to put them up in that little box.

6-puck = chatter. and your not suppose to slip them according to everything i read. although my friend has a 4-puck and he doesnt really have any chatter...