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post up them dyno sheets

the only difference between the two driveshafts is the front half of the driveshaft itself. the back or second half is completely the same... you could just find a r154 front half of the drive shaft and bolt it on to your current driveshaft when you switch to r154 instead of buying a new one.

i'm on a 70mm with the drewgo manifold and never saw any boost creep issues... do you like your power at tap or can you wait for a spool? if you like your power almost instant i would to with somthing no larger than a 63mm but if you want full boost in the higher rpms i would go with a 68mm or a...

hey thats not bad, pretty good if you ask me but what are you using to tune? you can only really check injector duty cycle if you have a powerful piggy back that is close to a stand alone or a stand alone itself. any vids?

i'm using the 2jzgte tps, don't use the 2jzge one... it rotates in the opposite direction

when are you dynoing? don't forget to take vids

thats where mine is also at

nice setup! but give the 7m guys some respect too lol cuz not all of them are jerks... and there are always afew that can't be beat... keep in mind that we all at one point were 7m guys lol

sounds normal to me but it could be that the aristo ecu ran rich because its running a fuel map for a 3.0 instead of a 2.5 liter. meaning it adds more fuel then a 1jz ecu, thats why when you switched to the 1j ecu it ran lean cuz its dumping less fuel than before. hope that makes since

damn that was scary!! why wasn't there any block stoppers infront and behind the front wheels? but it sounds and looks good!

lol looks like my engine bay but cleaner! dr. tweak does an awesome job! did my engine harness and 1j to 2j jumper harness with emanage. have you guys settled in at the new shop?

some of them are and some of them aren't... just depends if you get the real walbro or knock off

i'm definitly interested in this, pm'd you!

welcome sir!

look at the thread that is titled "BC cams 1jz?"

well, mine when you kill the fuel pump it still runs rich no matter how long i let it run for. it never goes lean and dies... i am soo stumped, i might ask bigzavas if he is still willing to send me his ecu just so i can check to see if my replacement ecu i got is also bad...

cool get them pics up when you get the chance to

i don't know if its my pump... my a/r are in the 9s meaning its too rich at idle... i turned my fuel pressure as low as it could go, about 20 psi and its still rich... when i turn off my pump the car will still runs no matter how long i let it idel, its like the motor is still getting fuel even...

awesome man! where did you go and who tuned it? lets see pics of your setup

thats cool we can do that when ever but my car isn't currently running right now... lol i haven't had time to work on it