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This thread needs to end....

Mea culpa. I stand corrected and sorry for the bad advice. I've only recently dug into the code for the pre 89 ECUs, and now I see there are a lot of changes to the diagnostics. Toyota basically ran out of memory and had to ditch alot of things in the pre-89 ECUs to add newer features found in...

... and I'm telling you no way. There is not even a VS signal line on the GTE ECU to short! Note the *3 note on code 32. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=27

Yes. I have a few modified ECUs out with beta testers. Have made good progress fixing issues uncovered by them. Have also put together a complete model of the fuel calculations which has allowed us to modify the stock program for the Lexus AFM/550 injector to retain the original ignition timing...

I am not saying it is a good thing, just that the factory did not seem to be controlling this too well. If it was me I would have it decked flat (which is what I did).

I can confirm. From the factory the two don't line up perfectly. Mine was on an angle and above the block for half the length as you describe. Engine had never been apart. The stock gasket seems okay with this.

Wait, is it 32 or 35? 35 is HAC. 32 is a non-turbo code. Shouldn't ever see a 32 with a GTE.

I'm not there either, but find a way to check continuity on the 4 TPS wires (E2, VTA, IDL, VC). If you've got 500mV at the TPS, and 2.3V at the ECU it seems like a wiring problem to me.

I would double check availability. The HKS Turbo has been discontinued a long time now, and there is lots of stuff on websites that can't actually be bought when you ask. I recall the sport had smaller diameter tubing when I bought my HKS Turbo exhaust years ago.

What he said. The air temp sensor is part of the AFM. Either its bad or the wiring/connector is bad. Plug your old AFM back in and see if the 24 disappears.

Looks like you have a yellow plug ECU. In that case your HAC sensor plugs into the ECU. Make sure it is there and plugged in. If it is plugged in, then you'll need to find a replacement assuming the wiring checks out.

+1 for being a good sport.

Actually he must have a 33.3V super cell to get the 200V reading.

Depends whether you care about turn on time. The GTE is not a true peak and hold driver anyway though.

That's because it defies physics. Either his meter or his technique is bad.

Harbor Freight volt meter?

Get your battery checked.

Fix the codes. The idle is off because the TPS is not set properly, hence code 51. Both 52 and 32 affect timing and fuel control.

The fuel turn on rpm is always 400 rpm lower than the turn off rpm. If the ECT sensor is unplugged, the default temperature of 80C will be used, which would give a 1600 rpm setpoint.

There are lots of little differences between the A/T and M/T ECus. For example, the M/T ECU fuel control will go open loop between shifts when the throttle snaps shut, while an A/T will stay in closed loop. Idle control is very different too.