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You don't "set the idle". The ECU takes care of it using the ISCV.

Hah! That is certainly one I don't have. PM me if you want to pursue this.

I had heard of this before, and when I was doing my HG a long time ago I bought connectors planning to cut the wire in a convenient spot. But when I actually did the job all the connectors were at the starter and it was a non-issue. There must be a build date where the harness changed?

Sure. What ecu part number do you have? I may have already extracted the code for it.

stuck calipers?

He means where are the diagnostics in this thread. Lot's of "leaning towards", and guessing, and swapping.

Another shorting point is near the EGR where the engine loom passes through the intake runners.

I'd start by carefully examining the O2 sensor wiring over the exhaust manifold area. If the wire is damaged and the heater wire touches the engine it will short the EFI circuit. This usually pops the fuse, but it depends how good a contact it actually makes.

Well done. Congratulations.

LOL. The solution is not to find the source of the problem, but to add relays, and now wire to mask the problem. Case closed. Next...

So, given its old H/W you located the source of the voltage drop in the loop by doing the basic test procedures outlined in this thread, and therefore isolated the issue to the ____?

It stopped working after a while because you never fixed the problem to begin with. Its hardly worth repeating, but if you troubleshoot it as described, you'll find the problem and you can put all your extra relays and wire away for good. Its a trivial circuit.

I'm confused. I thought your root cause was a broken wire. Why the relay and such if the problem was just a broken wire?

what prep work did you do on the block for the MLS gasket?

The inputs to the tranny from the ECU are L1, L2, L3 and ECT. The IDL input comes straight off the TPS signal. There is no THW input per se, but ECT codes for THW Inputs that affect ECT are the status of the NSW, vehicle speed, rpm, and THW. THW trip points are 35C (40km/h) or 60C (60km/h).

If there's a groove worn in the crank from the old seal, then a new seal can leak. Sometimes its possible to position the new seal offset enough from the original position to contact fresh metal by putting a washer behind it. I have also seen "seal savers" for various engines. These are...

I agree, RC-CA. Root cause then corrective action. For the computer example, if the problem was the hardware and not the software then you've solved nothing and still have the same problem.

When you have a receipt showing your payment for technical services, then you can complain if you're not getting what you paid for. Otherwise, be thankful for any free advice you happen to receive, and be grateful that people with technical skills even bother to respond at all.

A repost of something I said in another thread... This circuit is so trivial everyone should be embarrassed if they cannot diagnose it. Things to check in no particular order: 1) Starter (starter relay contacts wear out) 2) Ignition Switch (using voltage drop test under load) 3) Starter relay...

I would never recommend tapping the O2 signal. That is a very sensitive signal that is easy to mess up.