Your projected costs seem optimistic. And a proper stock rebuild and MHG/studs on a 7M should be able to handle 400 rwhp safely. It's probably better to overbuild but I've been beating on my stock rebuild for about 2 years now at 300+ rwhp and will soon be upgrading to a 400ish rwhp setup on new...
I got what I said by calling Stance directly. They're pretty much willing to do anything you want as long as you're willing to pay for it. I'm ordering some with shorter shock bodies in the rear to go extra low :)
oh cool i never knew you had this build thread haha! definitely looking good. if i had known i would have given you some of the leftover 2.5" t-bolt clamps i have lying around... i also have like 12 2.5" couplers haha
Custom rates are free if you only go 1k above/below the "stock spec." If the shocks have to be re-valved I was quoted $70 for re-valving for all 4 corners! :)
Well if you don't mind purchasing used parts (guaranteed in good shape) when I take my RS-Rs and bilsteins off I'll let you know and if you haven't bought anything yet I'll cut you a deal :)
As far as bearings go, I replaced all my mains and rods with Toyota bearings when I rebuilt my engine...
Wow, thats a long time. I'm going to be selling my RS-R springs/bilstein shocks soon, it's just not stiff enough or low enough for me :( My sig pic shows the extreme body roll even with the RS-R springs and this picture isn't even on initiation...
Not when my worn out mounts let the engine shake noticeably during idle... I'm not talking vibrations, I'm talking shifter shaking around in about a 1" diameter circle at idle. :aigo: Just tighten up whatever you messed with and logically it should go back to how it used to be unless something...
The fact that yours just started vibrating after you did stuff to the car is slightly odd, but if it makes you feel any better my shifter shakes like a bish all the time haha. I have the oem fluid filled mounts and transmission mount though, which I'm sure are worn out. If you loosened anything...
I use a 3mm silicone vacuum line on mine and it fits nice and tightly. I put a zip tie on there but I've run it without one temporarily on the track and it never came off or anything, so 3mm seems to be the right size :)
edit: no surge either, just flutter. and that's only when i barely hit...
Mine flutters too, but I don't really care haha. Flutter shouldn't really hurt anything, as long as the air is escaping enough for the turbo not to surge... where are you pulling vacuum from to open the blow off valve?
Very nice sketches! I like the rear quarter view with the wing in this sketch a lot (the one on the bottom right): http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44637&d=1279940363
I agree with most everyone here, it needs to have a longer nose and shorter tail! The proportions...
did you have any boost creep issues? i like the 57 trim upgrade but am concerned the wastegate is too small to hold boost properly... very nice numbers!
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