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Problem with that is engines should be tuned independently to each other. All conditions will not be the same unless built the same with all the same parts with the same conditions. So one guy might be running 17* timing and another person might go this guy is running that so I can run that...

Very hard to o ring a 7m and have it last as the space between cylinders is so small. And if it fails the block is toast. Better off just sticking to a mhg. A very low ra on the block and head and a very clean and well prepped and assembled engine with a mhg and arp would be plenty

Na mk4 go anywhere from 8-20k. Turbos are usually 20k plus. 15 and all the hassle and waiting for a na just doesn't seem very worth it to me. But that's up to you. rhd vs lhd doesn't really mean much. I'd rather lhd. Less hassle and more comfortable.

Nope. The resistor goes on the power side. Sequential only requires changing the grounds. Which is basically 3 wires.

It's possible to run 2jz Ecu on 7m. My friend did it while back. Could always weld a couple teeth on the exhaust cam and then figure out some sort of pick up and ditch the cps.

did you include shipping charges and tax? And why waste the time to remove the engine. Might as well buy a 6 speed car and then register it. Your not gaining anything by removing the engine.

As far as what? The forks shouldn't touch any sort of gearing. If it does something is wrong. The Marlin crawler pieces and dm pieces are all well built and good.

Done it both ways. Extending it is easier to get it in and out of the car. Also depends on exactly what harness as not all of them will reach. As long as you cut 1 wire at a time and either crimp or solder wouldn't be a problem and then all the shielded wiring should be replaced. Long...

It's louder because under the conditions needed for forged the piston expands more. So when machining the piston to bore gap is larger creating the piston slap noise usually until warmed up to where they expand enough to make less noise.

Why would you. After importation fees and registration it would be cheaper to buy one out here. And why buy a car that you wouldn't be able to register for another 7 years. That's just a waste of time space and money b

Who rebuilt it?

7m has a injector resistor box already wired in essentially making the low imp injectors high imp. So your fine as long as that's not bypassed. A v1 is pretty old school as well.

Ya why bother with charcoal canister with fuel cell. But the jza70 is smaller and fits in the fender well.

Can always verify by checking for the same colored wires at the Ecu and on the engine side and then using a ohm meter to verify its the same wire. Basically the difference is that the Ecu plugs are different and the 89+ have the hac sensor in the Ecu. But a 88 Ecu pin out off google maps...

^your a/c compressor is not wired up correctly. the signal for the compressor relay needs to go through the ecu so it knows the a/c compressor as been turned on. That seems high but i would not complain as it would never stop blowing cold lol. sometimes it starts blowing hotter air with lower...

never heard about that before. tin foil shouldnt be used in a engine tho

check for codes. if ignition related then yes for sure. but yes since the cps is very old they are pretty sensitive about there wires.

Can try toyotapartsdeal.com too

Just break the engine in on the dyno and tune it at the same time.

Start with codes. Even if light is not on still check. Then check for boost leaks. Then start checking for bhg. Compression test , leak down test, block test.