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Better take some measurements and make sure the divider on the DP isn't causing clearance issues. Other than that, is it creeping in every gear? From what I understand, the WG partially functions by creating turbulence in the exhaust (restricting turbine flow). Porting the WG should fix the...

I was talking about removing 15% signal from AFM, also the adjustments have been zerod since the AFM signal alteration was all over the map. This is e-manage blue. Trying to understand how the timing is supposed to be adjusted safely. I understand the basics, but for the most part, it just...

I'm pretty much in the dark here, where would a good place be to start tuning IGN timing for a 400whp setup? I know there are more variables, but it's just a stock cam/cam gear gte w/ an e-manage, and a 57trim + fuel upgrades. What I'm seeing is that an additional ~4 degrees of retard is...

rotella T6 5w-40 and K&N filter I've used walmart oil in the past with no issues. I don't like how thick it is when cold though :aigo:

sure, no problem. although the car it's going in is in another county and it won't be installed for about 3-4 weeks.

sweet, just ordered one ;)

I see a lot of communication taking place on the farcebook. A lot of which is extremely redundant, opinionated, and either mis-informed or completely uneducated guessing. It's sloppy, wasteful, and generally ineffective. The forum format is far superior at what it does. IMO That said, I've...

yeah, I plan on using a tial 50mm. was just curious. a little reading confirmed that it's there to prevent the turbo from pushing more air than the engine can take at high rpms. although some people have reported using no bypass valve and having 0 surge w/ throttle lift.

I could easily assume you're talking about anything. honestly I'm confused though. however, I think I see what you're getting at. ::moebaker::

@Indigo #1 there's always an exception, you may not ever find it, for all intensive purposes, it may not even exist. #2 yes, I drove those hundreds of miles, more than once. major mechanical failures, I avoid those, or they avoid me, not sure which. #3 anything else you said pretty much went...

I'd have to object to this 100%. #1 my car does stock boost w/ full flow exhaust. although intake is stock. granted, the head is ported, resulting in less pressure, more flow, still ~275whp for stock boost (dyno @10 292whp,298wtq) #2 I've always ran my engine hard as hell (with respect) to...

god, I read his post, but for some reason I was thinking it wasn't BONE stock. keep the damn engine completely stock till you pull the head, check and (if necessary) machine surfaces, and install a new head gasket @ correct torque specs. you probably will blow the headgasket if it's 100%...

only one way to find out. I used to drive around leaking a qt per 100 miles out of my turbo oil feed line, cause I assembled everything correctly in my driveway, but the crush washer somehow slipped from behind the banjo without me noticing (really awkward to work on) I found the copper washer...

3 psi ain't really going to do hardly anything. you may be able to do 14, and that should pick up some tq. but I can hardly tell a difference between 7 or 10 on mine. doing close to 300whp+tq on 10 psi. any more than that, the ecu cuts my engine off.... waiting on EMS v2 install after...

what I was thinking. ^^ the air is going to have to reverse paths either way I just don't see a FFIM being that much of an improvement to spend the extra $$ especially when I only want 400+ whp

Only advantage I see is the air turns at slightly less angle in the 2nd design. the first has half the rows, but more surface area. overall I think the 1st would cool better, but create a little more lag.

worst I've gotten was 64 in a 45. was actually doing 85. I have, however blown past cops in a minivan :biglaugh: @ 3am doing 110 in a 35 IIRC, they didn't even bother giving chase. Another night I blew past a state trooper WOT w/ atmospheric dump doing 120 in a 60. not sure if he clocked...

ok, yeah I'd planned on getting a 50mm tial

I've read into this quite a bit, but couldn't find a definitive answer to this. Some people say you should, others say they've had no issues not running one. What's yall's take on this?

just a standard alternator swap. thank the toyota god for voltmeters. seriously. I bought the alternator 3-4 months in advance cause I noticed voltage was low (.5 volts), and was able to make it home when it finally gave out. stock boost gauges are useless anyhow. Alt. looks kinda melted...